1.0 Purpose/Background/Administrative/Tuning Primer

1.1 What's the purpose of this FAQ?

   This document tries to answer many frequently asked questions Honda
   performance enthusiasts ask. All Honda-Performance List subscribers MUST
   read the ENTIRE FAQ first (unless you're special enough to know a lot about
   cars already :D ). This FAQ makes no attempt to be the complete OR accurate
   source of automotive information. It's the opinion of the FAQ editor that the
   reader is responsible for their own automotive enlightenment. There are many
   quality books that explain automotive performance. A trip to the library
   might be in order.

   It should be noted that front wheel drive cars are not the optimum
   configuration for total performance. In drag racing and cornering, different
   tricks and driving skills are needed to make a FWD car go fast. Make sure you
   REALLY want to make a FWD car fast.

1.2 Who runs this FAQ? Who gets blamed?

   Currently, Jeffrey Ho See presides as Editor of the FAQ. Other FAQ assistants
   are Justin Bedard and Anton Chu. Some other honorable mentions are the unnamed
   editors of the Integra web page.

   You can blame/flame us all you want, but we take no legal responsibility for
   the information contained within. Your car is your car, and how you hurt it
   is all on you.

   If you find some FAQ information to be controversial, please respond politely.
   Polite opposing viewpoints will be noted in the FAQ. Rude ones will be
   deleted on sight. In addition, please do not bombard the FAQ editor with
   questions. The editor merely maintains the FAQ and doesn't have
   the time or resources to answer everyone's personal questions.

   The tone of the FAQ maybe construed as anti-performance Honda. This is far
   from the truth. It's been proven that Hondas can be made to go fast, but
   novice Honda performance-minded individuals should be given as much
   resistance to ensure that hopping up their Honda is really what she/he
   wants to do. Let's face it, money doesn't grow on trees for all of us. If it
   did, you'd probably already have a really fast fast fast Honda
   (or maybe something else). It's gonna take some money, time, and lots of
   patience. And please take what speed shops say with a grain of salt, in
   some cases a big one.

1.3 What other Honda resources are on the Web?

   Keeping tabs on all the current web pages would be just as hard as keeping
   tabs on all the import speed shops cropping up and dying off. Currently the
   Honda Performance jump gate is the Temple Of VTEC maintained by Jeff Palmer.

   The current URL is : http://www.vtec.net/

1.4 Who can contribute to the FAQ?

   Anyone can! If you have pertinent information please forward it to the FAQ
   Editor. You will be credited with the information accordingly
   (so watch out for the flames!)

1.5 I wanna jump on the Honda hop-up band wagon. What do I do first?

(Tuning Primer)

   Join the crowd!

   The SINGLE biggest modification you can do to your car is to yourself. Make
   sure you understand how to shift, launch, and corner. There are many books
   and Internet resources discussing driving technique. You can have the
   fastest car in the world and still only drive it as good as another person
   in a Pinto.

   Remember when choosing your performance parts, be sure to upgrade components
   the furthest away from the motor and then closer. So get rid of the extremity
   bottle necks before working on bottlenecks in the motor itself.
   In other words, perform your modifications into the motor. Not haphazardly.
   (i.e. 1) intake 2) exhaust 3) headers 4) throttle body 5) intake manifold
   6) camshafts 7) sprockets 8) cylinder head etc etc )

   Here's a short and sweet tuning primer.
   Golden Rule 1) Ask yourself, "How much money do I have?"
   Golden Rule 2) Now ask yourself, "How fast do I want to go?"

   #2 is only limited by #1. So now pick your tuning path based on these
   decisions. Do you want to stay normally aspirated? Turbocharged?
   Supercharged? Or even nitrous oxide assisted?

   Normally Aspirated : The engine alone is responsible for ingesting as
   much air as possible. And remember air is never 100% oxygen.

   Turbocharged : A snail shell looking device that is driven off exhaust
   gases (imagine 2 pinwheels attached on a axle) As the exhaust wheel spins,
   the intake wheel compresses air packing it into the engine. Choosing the
   correct turbocharger is essential for optimum performance.

   Supercharged : A belt driven compressor that forces air into the engine.
   A supercharger functions similarly to a turbocharger. The difference
   is the supercharger spins by a belt attached to the crankshaft pulley
   (much like your A/C, power steering, and alternator)

   Nitrous Oxide :

   punchie@primenet.com (Lowbuck Brawler aka Weyland Jung)
   Nitrous oxide is made up of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen
   (36% oxygen by weight). During the combustion process in an engine, at about
   572 degrees F., nitrous breaks down and releases oxygen. This extra oxygen
   creates additional power by allowing more fuel to be burned. Nitrogen acts to
   buffer, or dampen the increased cylinder pressures helping to control the
   combustion process. Nitrous also has a tremendous "intercooling" effect by
   reducing intake charge temperatures by 60 to 75 degrees F.

   Each has it's pros and cons. It's a good idea to understand them all before
   proceeding with modifications.

   mailto:fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com offers the following :
   Okay, basically there are three ways to improve an engine's performance.

   - Mechanical efficiency
   - Volumetric efficiency
   - Thermo efficiency

   ME improvements - lighten/blance rotating engine assembly, increase
   maxium operating RPM, reduce driventrain less (lighter rims, tranny
   box improvement.)

   VE improvements - intake, header, exhaust, manifolds, head work,
   forced induction, cam profile/timing...

   TE improvements - compression ratio, ignition, air/fuel ratio,
   thermo barrier coatings.

   So also keep these areas in mind when modifying your vehicle for maximum performance!

1.6 I want more "low end", how will modifications affect this?

   Golden Rule 3) "There is no replacement for displacement."

   Here's a cold hard reality check, Honda small displacement 4 cylinder
   engines tend to be high revving horsepower geared engines. They do not
   produce a healthy amount of torque WITHOUT some serious modifications. And
   even then, most of this power will not come beneath 3,000 RPM.

   Thankfully Hondas are fortunate enough to have reasonably light chassis
   and a good gearing. Thus with the moderate amount of torque and higher amount
   of horsepower they get by just fine. ;D

   But if you truly seek that 1,000 RPM 300ft-lbs of torque, perhaps you should
   buy a V8 engine car.

1.7 How will modifications hurt the life of the engine?

   Asking your engine to make more power places greater wear and tear on it.
   It's a fact of life. Regular maintenance and keeping an eye on performance
   modifications are essential to engine life. If your modifications are bolt
   on ones, you really don't have to worry.

1.8 What are some good books to check out?

   Helm Factory Service Manual (get it from your local Honda/Acura dealer, see your owner's manual)
   Helm's # : 800-782-4356


   Secrets of Solo Racing
   Handling, what it is and how to get it.
   Honda/Acura Driver/Owner Guide
   Turbochargers by Hugh MacInnes

   From: mailto:spchurch@idt.net   "I did find a cool new book called "High Performance Honda Builder's Handbook"
   by Joe Pettit.  I thumbed through and decided to buy it (<$20).  Seems
   pretty cool and does have a section on turbocharging, specifically with
   help from Turbonetics and RPS.  I'll figure this stuff out yet.  This
   book seems like a must read for new Honda people, might save us a lot of
   time (published late 1996).  It also has all the engine codes, valve
   sizes, compression ratios, combustion cc's, etc. so if the FAQ needs
   anything, let me know."

   From: http://www.imoto.com/   "Honda builder's handbook by joe pettit
   $14.75 available through Summit racing 1.800.230.3030"

   Magnecor adds in :
   We have listed a new Honda tech. book [the above mentioned] on our web site
   that may interest you (we have no financial interest in the book, but we
   are helping the writer out). It is a useful book.
   It is at: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/HONDA1.htm



   Super Street Magazine
   Turbo & Hi-Tech Performance Magazine
   Grassroots Motorsports Magazine
   Sport Compact Car Magazine sorry, you will have to search for it here

   Your favorite nudey magazine (recommended for periods of depression when you have
   the need for speed, but not enough speed)

   Thanks to Perry (pywong@ucsd.edu) for the good URL (Physics of Racing) :
   http://members.home.net/rck/phor/"

1.9 I have a question about working on my car, does this FAQ answer it?

   No. This is a Honda Performance FAQ currently. Although many enthusiasts
   perform the modifications themselves, the FAQ would grow
   exponentially if we included detailed how-to steps for every
   possible performance modification. My best advice is purchase
   your Helm mechanic manual for your car. It has very detailed
   explanations on how to work on the car. Then if you're still
   confused, consult the list.

1.10 Do aftermarket parts void my warranty?

   Only if they've been proven to be the cause of the problem.
   The burden of proof does rest on the dealership.
   IMNSHO, Honda/Acura does a poor job of customer satisfaction
   as other owners and myself are usually given the run around
   for problems clearly resulting from manufacturing defects.
   YMMV, so you may want to restore the modifications back to stock
   in order for the warranty process to be smoother.

1.11 What will my emissions be like after modifications?

   Usually all the bolts on will actually lean out your motor while at speed.
   Your only big problem is passing the idle portion of your local smog test.
   Every state/country has its own regulations so check with your local
   sources. If your modifications have sacrificed air flow down low
   you can expect your idle emissions to be rich.

   California checks for three categories : HC(PPM)    CO(%)    CO2(%)
   The latter two are (I think!) unimportant as they are checks to ensure
   that you truly are burning gas and the percentages are all correct
   (you're not venting some exhaust elsewhere).

   A 1993 Acura Integra LS has a .100ppm HC limit to pass in California.
   With the catalytic converter in place with full bolt on modifications
   it had a reading of .001 ppm. Without the cat, HC soared to .224.
   Quite illegal.

   mailto:foxer@gate.net had these results :
          HC(PPM)    CO(%)     CO2(%)
   Limit     220      1.20
   Reading    93      0.05     15.1
   Results  PASS      PASS

   1993 Honda Civic Si Hatchback
   Iceman Wetland Intake
   GReddy Exhaust
   DC Sports Header
   Advanced Timing

1.12 How will OBD-II (on board diagnostics) respond to modifications?

   From: patrick(acuracar@ix.netcom.com)
   "As long as the air/fuel ratio is acceptable to OBD-II then there are no
   problems.  So as long as you give the car the additional fuel it needs w/
   the nitrous then there will be absolutely no problems."

   From: mailto:EdDSP@ix.netcom.com   "A friend installed a test pipe in his 96 GS-R today, and so far
   no "check engine" light turning on. The test pipe has bungs welded in
   for the O2 sensors, and was driven for at least 2 hours."

   "Since your car is a pre-OBD II vehicle, the check engine light shouldn't
   turn on when installing a test pipe. In OBD II (96-on) Hondas/Acuras, the second
   O2 sensor is supposed to check catalytic converter efficiency by comparing its
   readings with the first O2 sensor (which is what you have). Now that there is no
   cat, does the ECU see this as an extremely efficient cat, or as a bad reading?
   From this "experiment", I guess the OBD II system is compatible with a test
   pipe."

   From: mailto:sisman@accessv.com   "I had my test pipe for 94 gsr, the engine light will not go on unless you
   disconnect the oxygen sensor.  If you install the O2 sensor properly, the
   engine will work normally."

1.13 Where can I go to find information on people's cars?

   There are numerous car specific pages that have owner registries setup.
   However EuJin has created an entire Honda Performance List registry at
   http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/9391/hpregistry.html.
   Be sure to swing by and check out Who's Who.

2.0 BreakDown Models and Generations, Analysis

	Accord
		1986-1989	3rd Gen
		1990-1993	4th Gen
		1994-1997	5th Gen
		1998-2001	6th Gen (coming soon!)

	Performance Analysis : Why? Now before the flames start coming in,
	the rantings of the DC Sports SiR followers, and the
	Neuspeed Touring Car follower, let me just say the Accord is supposed
	to be a comfortable sedan. And no street sedan is ever gonna come close
	to a race prepped Touring Car. If you're still stubborn
	to hop up your Accord, remember GR#1 and GR#2. Then ask
	yourself why you just didn't start with a Prelude VTEC in the
	first place.

	Civics
		1984-1987	3rd Gen
			base engine
				1342 cc, 4 cylinder, 8 valve, 2 barrel carb
			DX, Si, sedan, and wagon :
				1488 cc, 4 cylinder, 12 valve, 2 barrel carb
			Si, 4WD wagon
				PGM FI

		1988-1991	4th Gen
			DX, Si, LX, Wagon, 4WD

			1493 cc, 4 cylinder, 12 valve, 16 valve on hatchbacks,
			Dual Point FI, Multi Point FI on Si and 4WD wagon

		1992-1995	5th Gen
			DX, LX, EX, Si, hatch/coupe/4door
			1.5L, 1.6 SOHC VTEC

		1996-1999	6th Gen
			DX, LX, EX, no Si
			1.5L, 1.6 SOHC VTEC

	Performance Analysis : 	Civics are the Mustangs/Camaros of Honda.
	With a healthy power to weight ratio, a hopped up Civic
	can give sports cars a serious run for the money.
	Try to stay away from the wagons and the DXs okay?
	If you stick with the Si or EX you'll be much happier.
	DX's tend to have a wimpy intake/fuel injection and a wimpy motor. So
	no big nitrous oxide shots or boost. Going hybrid with the light
	chassis is choice though (VX, DX, CX).

	CRX
		1984-1987
		1988-1991

	Performance Analysis : The Poor Man's Sports Car. Based on the Civic
	chassis, this car was made to handle and go fast. Again stick with
	the Si version or you'll have to spend more money going around
	non-Si nuances. DX's tend to have a wimpy intake/fuel injection and
	a wimpy motor. So no big nitrous oxide shots or boost will make
	it much faster. Going hybrid with the light chassis is choice
	though (HF models).

	delSol
		1994-1997

	Performance Analysis : The CRX born again. Honda did not engineer
	this car to truly be a performance successor to the CRX. Anything
	with VTEC means speed! So stick with the Si and VTEC models.

	From: mailto:daveds50@sprintmail.com	Subject: Re: HP:  auto-xing Del Sols

	"Douglas Coulthard wrote:
	> Ok wow, what is with the del Sol bashing, I have a del Sol and love my car
	> vey much and am looking into getting into Autocross, but you guys all seem
	> to be into drag racing.

	as i've mentioned before, we have attempted to build a 95 del sol
	VTEC into a nationally competitive CSP autocross car. We had about
	$15,000 worth of full blown race parts into it. No, not street parts
	like you read about here. Well, it was competitive locally, and
	even regionally, just like the guy you talk to in Calif.
	But the truth is, is my CSP 85 CRX Si just ate it up. And so will
	the other nationally competitive 1st gen CSP CRX Si's. It's the
	weight of the del sol that kills it. After all, it's hard to beat
	a 1700-1800 lb car with around 140-150+ HP. You would need at
	least 220+ HP which can't be done within the SCCA Street Prepared
	rules with the Del Sol VTEC engine. (believe me, we tried, and so
	have many others) Not to mention handling : a 1700-1800 lb CRX can
	pull over 1.1 lateral G's steady state on race tires. Mine will do
	1.18 right, 1.17 left, and our del sol did 1.04 and 1.05 on my
	wheels and tires.

	But im not saying it's a bad car, I like them very much, but not for
	a race car." [Ed : well maybe not for a Solo2 race car. ;D]


	Integra
		1987-1989
		1990-1993
		1994-1997
		1998-2001	Coming soon?

	Performance Analysis : The Civic's bigger brother. A little heavier,
	but the bigger engine. Witness lil brothers seen stealing the engines
	away out of their older brother's chassis. GS-R is the Integra bad
	boy. And the Type-R is the race car on the street. An Integra
	is a good choice for hopping up. The lower model (RS) might be choice,
	since it's the lightest.

	Legend

	Performance Analysis : 	See Accord analysis.

	NSX
		1991-1997

	Performance Analysis : The premier sports car
	from Honda. The newer engine makes the car more
	competitive in a straight line against
	other Sports Cars.

	Prelude
		1989-1992
		1992-1996
		1997-

	Performance Analysis : Bigger engine (TORQUE!) and a
	good suspension make this car one of the 3
	sporty/sports car from Honda. Again stick
	with Si or VTEC and you won't go wrong.
	It's a bit heavier, but as seen
	in IMSA they make a good road racer.
	Not as popular as Integras, may have
	something to do with bang for buck.

	TL, RL, CL

	Performance Analysis : 	See Accord analysis.

	Vigor

	Performance Analysis : 	See Accord analysis.

3.0 Engines

   Engine Basics

   I've tried my best to explain the workings of the engine. For a different
   point of view, try checking out : http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101.html

   An engine is a air pump. It takes in oxygen, adds fuel, compresses it,
   burns it, and then expels the exhaust out. The controlled combustion energy
   is converted to a (kinetic) mechanical one. The combustion drives the
   crankshaft to turn which connected to a transmission causes the drive wheels
   to spin.

   Valves are devices to control opening and closing of orifices within
   the cylinder head (combustion chamber) These valves are actuated by camshafts
   via rocker arms. Some valves let air+fuel in, others expel exhaust.

   Camshafts are axles with different kinds of lobes/bumps on them. The
   shape/size of these lobes determine how and when the valves open and close.
   The terms lift, duration, and overlap are used to describe a camshaft. Lift
   refers to how high the camshaft opens a valve. Duration refers to how long
   a camshaft keeps the valve open for. And overlap refers to how long an intake
   and exhaust valve are both open at the same time.

   On one end of the camshaft a gear called a camshaft sprocket is attached.
   This keeps the camshaft in mechanical synchronization with the crankshaft.
   Usually a belt or chain is used to run the sprockets and the crankshaft gear.
   Remember your timing belt maintenance?

   The cylinder head houses the combustion chamber of the engine as well
   as the valvetrain, camshafts, and sparkplugs. The cylinder head mounts on top
   of the engine block.

   The engine block houses the crankshaft, rods, and pistons.

   The pistons single axis upward and downward motion is converted to a
   rotational one via the connecting rods to the crankshaft. Pistons can be
   changed to control the size of the combustion chamber (this volume is referred
   to as displacement).

   Connecting rods attach the pistons to the crankshaft.

   The crankshaft is the big axle you want to spin to make your car go. On one
   end, the flywheel is attached.

   Remember, in making an engine produce more power there are a lot of factors
   involved (gas mileage, low end power, high end power, engine life, etc etc)

3.1 What engine oil should I use? How often should I change it?

   As often as you can afford it and as often as is practical for your
   lifestyle. If you need a solid mileage number, every 3k miles depending on
   driver abuse/environmental conditions is a good start. A good synthetic oil
   is also recommended. Mobil1, Redline, and Castrol Syntec are current
   favorites.

3.2 What's the difference between SOHC versus DOHC?

   S ingle O ver H ead C amshaft
   D ual   O ver H ead C amshaft

   SOHC has one cam above the cylinders controlling both sets of intake and
   exhaust valves. While  DOHC has one camshaft for intake valves and one for
   exhaust valves.

   As you can imagine it's harder mechanically to use one camshafts to control
   all valves precisely. By having two camshafts, one for intake and one for
   exhaust valves, you can fine tune valve control (more power)

3.3 What's VTEC?

   Daryl Krzewinski (mailto:daryl.krzewinksi@ab.com) :
   VTEC is Honda's trademarked acronym for Variable valve Timing and Electronic
   lift Control. Put simply, it's a method of directly altering the cam profile
   that valves "see", so that the optimum grind can be utilized at either high
   or low rpm.

   Ideally we'd like to control each valve independently with great precision.
   Unfortunately this isn't practical/feasible yet.  Thus the need for DOHC
   (see 3.2) However even that is limited, imagine if we dynamically alter the
   camshaft lobes for optimal configuration for the valves opening and closing
   for a given range of RPMs? Essentially VTEC allows many different camshaft
   profiles. Ideally you can have a low RPM cam, then kick in the big RPM cam.
   You've got the best of both worlds. This is VTEC.

   It's electronic in the sense that the whole setup is RPM activated by the
   engine computer.

   For more VTEC explanation, see http://integra.vtec.net/vtec.html

3.4 How often should I adjust my valves?

   This is much like the oil question. Again as often as you can afford it and
   as often as is practical for your lifestyle. Every 15k miles is a good start.
   Probably before every race too.

3.5 What is a porting & polished head job?

   The engine production process is not perfect. Imperfections in the casting
   of parts leads to rough surfaces. A "port" usually involves remove/changing
   the size/shape of an opening. A "polish" smoothens the surface. The overall
   combination flows more than stock. Thus yielding better power.

   Changing the shape improves the path of intake air/fuel, and polishing smooths
   the path, reducing turbulence.

3.6 What benefit do I get from changing camshafts?

   Honda engineers a compromise on their camshafts (with respect to gas mileage,
   power, and idle quality)

   Remember your engine basics? This is where valve lift, duration, and overlap
   are played around with to produce more power out of an engine.

   By going with a performance grind, you usually get more power up top. You
   sacrifice some power down low as well as idle quality and gas mileage.

   Also remember VTEC? This is where VTEC solves the camshaft problem elegantly.

3.7 What are adjustable cam sprockets? What do they do?

   With an adjustable cam sprocket, you can adjust the camshaft timing away from
   the mechanically set stock setting. Doing this you can fine tune the engine's
   behavior to produce more power. You will again likely sacrifice gas mileage
   as well as idle quality. A competent tuner and a dyno are essential to reap
   the max benefits from this modification.

   Apparently, people are having problems with installation of these parts.
   Some people have broken the set bolts which results in tuning adjustments
   thrown off. Consult the manufacturer for proper installation and torque
   setting when installing these.

   From: Ed (EdDSP@ix.netcom.com)
   ">Frank/G.Speed wrote:
   > As for broken studs, there has been two cases I know for Z.Speed gears.
   > But in both cases it's simply overtightened.

   Umm, make that two more cases. Both were on 1.8l VTEC engines, and
   both weren't overtightened. To make sure this won't happen again, these two
   friends of mine are getting some grade-8 bolts to replace 'em. Other than
   the weak bolts, I have no other complaints about the Z-Speeds."

3.8 What models and engines are out there?

   Too many for me to remember. Please send me the engine specs if you have
   them.

   Civic

   From: Drew (not Boyles) Yamamoto, jktom@sfsu.edu
   "From the 94' Civic catalogue straight from Honda HQ in Aoyama Japan"

    Honda Civic HB

    EG 3	EL	D13B	carburated	 85HP@6300	SOHC 1.3l
    EG 4	MX	D15B	dual carb	100HP@6300	SOHC 1.5l
    EG 4	ETi	D15B	PGM-FI		 94HP@5500	SOHC 1.5l
    EG 4	VTi	D15B	PGM-FI		130HP@6800	SOHC 1.5l
    EG 6	SiR	B16A	PGM-FI		170HP@7300	DOHC 1.6l

    Honda Civic Ferio (sedan)

    EG7		EL	D13B	carburated	 85HP@6300	SOHC 1.3l
    EG8		ML	D15B	carburated	 91HP@6000	SOHC 1.5l
    EG8 	MX	D15B	dual carb	100HP@6300	SOHC 1.5l
    EG8		ETi	D15B	PGM-FI		 94HP@5500	SOHC 1.5l
    EG8 	VTi	D15B	PGM-FI		130HP@6800	SOHC 1.5l
    EJ3		EXi	ZC	PGM-FI		130HP@6600	SOHC 1.6l
    EG9		SiR	B16A	PGM-FI		170HP@7300 	DOHC 1.6l

    Honda Civic Ferio 4WD

    EH1		RTX	ZC	PGM-FI		105@6300	SOHC 1.6l
    EH1		RTSi	ZC	PHM-FI		130@6800	DOHC 1.6l

   Integra
      142hp@6300, 127 ft/lbs@5200	B18B1, 1.8 L DOHC	from G3 Integra.
      170hp@7600, 128 ft/lbs@6200	B18C1, 1.8 L DOHC VTEC	from G3 Integra.

   From: knw@VNET.IBM.COM
   Subject: HP : SiR Confusion, EF 9 & EK 9 engines, and vtec vs non-vtec

   "SiR Confusion
   Matt Blodgett spoke of his SiR confusion. Basically, he was asking about
   the ZC series of motors from Honda and about its relevance to the SiR.

   Perhaps I can offer some information. It seems that the ZC name is for
   a series of 1.6l engine (1590cc to be exact) that Honda puts on the
   Civic/CRX/Integra range. This can be SOHC or DOHC. For each different
   engine, its serial number will also be preceeded by a D16... something
   that indicates its exact configuration.

   [Ed: this coincides with Drew's information above.]

   Thus, Civic/CRX 1.6-16 in UK uses a ZC engine which is 1590cc DOHC. I
   forgot the D16... name. My previous car which is a Civic model
   specifically for certain parts of South-East Asia also uses a ZC engine.
   It's 1590cc SOHC Dual-Carb and the serial number is preceeded by D16Z1.
   I believe if you are to check the 1.6lSOHC VTECs of US Civics, you will
   also find its serial number preceeded by the D16... name. In fact if you
   are to check a japanese catalog for the Civic/CRX, all of the 1.6l motors
   will be called 'ZC' except for the DOHC VTEC.

   The 1.6l (1595cc actually) DOHC VTEC is called the B16A. There are two
   generations. The first generation appeared in Japan-only version of the
   2nd gen Integra called the XSi in 1989. They appeared in the Civic/CRX
   in end '89/1990 in the model called the SiR. This first generation
   produces 160hp at 7600rpm in Japan. To add to the confusion, this
   engine when used in the UK version of the CRX (called the 1.6-16VT model)
   produces 'only' 150hp at a lower rpm (forgot exact number).

   From late '91/92 onwards, B16As got revised and now Japan versions
   produces 170hp at 7800rpm. These again appeared in the Japan-only Integra
   XSi's and then in '92+ Civic/CRX DelSol SiRs when they appeared. IF you
   are looking at used motors imported from Japan, look at the valve covers
   to determine the generation of the B16A you are getting. The 1st gen
   has DOHC wordings larger than VTEC. The current gen has VTEC wordings
   larger than DOHC. Now, to REALLY add to the confusion, all B16As used
   outside of Japan (in the UK Civic and DelSol and the US DelSol VTECs)
   has 160hp at 7600rpm but has the new valve cover (ie VTEC wordings larger
   than DOHC) so its important to _make sure_ exactly where the engine you
   are getting comes from. (In Malaysia, they cut the car in half and
   imports the half complete with engine into the country. Then we can
   clearly see all the japanese wording in the engine bay !. In anycase,
   the timing belt information on the valve cover will be in japanese).

   BTW, just a slight digress. The B16A seems totally different from the
   ZC. B16A = 1595cc, ZC = 1590cc. Their bore AND stroke are different. But
   B18C have the same bore as B16A so it _could_ be true that they are
   stroked B16As."

   From: mailto:soh@smartt.com   Subject: HP:  Weight difference of complete B18B1 and D16Z6

   For those of you interested, I weighed both engines (complete with
   tranny).  The B18B1 is 40 lbs heavier.  From info I have from TC Kline,
   the B18C1 (vtec) is 20 lbs heavier on top of that, mostly up high
   because of the vtec system.  I've also got a complete run down of each
   individual component that can be taken off the engine (alternator, dist,
   starter, engine mounts, PS bracket, pressure plate, tranny alone,
   clutch, all sorts of crap).  Someone remind me to post that some time
   this week.  The tranny without pressure plate and clutch weighed 81 lbs.

   Oh, the B18B1 weighed about 350 lbs total and the D16Z6 310 lbs (error
   is about +/- 5 lbs max).

3.9 Can the [xxx] engine be swapped into the [xxx] chassis?

   "So you wanna go hybrid?" I can't begin to completely answer this question.
   Currently, Integra powered Civics are the rage. There's talk of Prelude
   DOHC VTEC motors getting dropped into Civics too. For your Civic engine
   swapping information, check out http://www.westworld.com/~joe_r
   Thanks Joe.

3.10 What do I need to know before rebuilding my engine?

   When rebuilding a motor, you need to think of your tuning path. Nitrous
   oxide? Turbo/Supercharged? NA?

   Choose your compression wisely or you'll need to buy stock in Octane Booster
   companies. Recall your engine basics and chemistry (PV = nRT). The more air
   and fuel you pack into a given volume, the higher the pressure and temperature
   will be. This all leads to premature combustion and causes engine detonation
   which can/will lead to destruction of the engine internals.

   See http://integra.vtec.net/motorbuild.html for more precise information.
   Thanks Justin.

3.11 Do reprogrammed computer chips work?

   This is a very touchy subject. Some people say they do, others don't.

   Here are some general comments :

   Every engine runs a little bit differently than others. How can
   one company claim to have a chip that can boost power up by XX horsepower.

   Make sure your chip company has a good dyno, and dyno proven
   results.

   Does your chip company custom tune to your car's setup. And just
   how do they do so without your car at their shop?

   Say your setup changes, what will your chip company do for you then?

   A money back guarantee is a nice thing.

   Raising your rev limiter does you no good unless you're making power up
   there. Better keep an eye on the valvetrain.

   From: mailto:kwoods@kens.com   "Lately there have been some posts from people wanting to increase the
   redlines, or shift points on their cars.

   Why?

   A higher redline doesn't mean your car is faster, unless your valvestrain
   can support it.  If you have the stock valvetrain, you WILL have valve
   float. (The valves can't keep up with the cams or the pistons.  A Bad
   Thing(tm))  The valves will smack into the pistons, and you'll end up with
   a pile of junk metal, not an engine."

   Get a straight answer on how easy it is to return the ECU to stock parameters.

3.12 Who makes the best VTEC cam?

   Currently, Honda is the best VTEC cam maker. Putting the Japanese Type R
   camshafts in has resulted in +7hp according to http://www.webcom.com/dynamic   on their DynoJet.

   JG Engine Dynamics as well as DPR are both prototyping VTEC camshafts with
   reported good success.

   GUDE has always offered VTEC camshafts, but there have been mixed reports
   to thier performance results.

   From: FuSiONSi@aol.com
   I have talked about this before, but I was down in LA about a month or so ago
   and they had a black 95 GSR there with the new JG cams, cam sprockets,
   throttle body, header, intake and exhaust....It produced 190 hp at the
   wheel!!!! JG claims 12-14hp at the wheels and I believe it!!! I talked to
   Jaiver and he said NE one happy with these cams after purchase can return
   them for a full refund...and you can't beat that!

   From: BLuRNoS@aol.com
   "Well the GS-R that JG had sitting there when I went had their new VTEC cams
   and he said he didn't notice ne difference in realiability at all...the only
   thing he notice was the power increase...also the car idles like stock..."

3.13 What's a milled head?

   This is a process of shaving off a little of the bottom (mounting side
   to the engine block) of the cylinder head. By doing so, you
   reduce the size of the combustion chamber (you have effectively
   raised your compression ratio, good for power)

   Be careful about milling your head. I've been told the ~correct~
   way to change your compression ratio is to use ~domed~ pistons.
   A much more expensive route than milling the head (see why people
   mill now?)

   By milling your head, you may throw off your camshaft timing (see
   adjustable cam sprocket), your ignition timing will be off too
   (the distributor reads input off the intake camshaft),
   and you may introduce more timing belt slack.

   People claim milling the cylinder head ever so imperceptably will not
   throw off these three areas too much (why bother then right?). I've
   always regarded Honda 4 cylinder engines as the epitome of conventional
   engine engineering. With astronomically high RPM power range,
   milling your head just seems to me like pulling out the pin
   on a grenade.

   Now before every milled head groupie writes in saying a milled
   head is the bomb etc etc., it's your valvetrain and your money.
   You've been warned.

3.14 Should I buy a VTEC controller? Can I make my own?

   By modifying your car, you may not be engaging VTEC at the optimal point.
   Only by extensive dyno time can you determine the optimum point.
   No one tuner has definitively proven that a VTEC controller
   yields a good power improvement.

   Simply purchasing a controller will not make your car faster. You need
   to dyno tune this device.

   From: mailto:ramanan@seas.ucla.edu   "I am not sure who said it... I read it on one of the posts listed among other stuff
   that's "hyped-up but actually doesn't work..."

   If you know how to use it correctly, VTEC controllers do help out.
   Now, my experience with these relates to the SPOON VTEC Controller in specific.
   I don't know if any of you guys have tried this out... but when the VTEC kicks in...
   the timing is advanced (ignition timing that is..)  When your car is on the dyno...
   especially if you have cams, there is a very huge spike when the VTEC kicks in.  On my
   car when the controller is set at 6000 rpm, there is a 45 (wheel horsepower) power
   spike on the dyno sheet.  On the road... this kicks the tires loose in 1st gear.  This
   kind of power is useless, therefore set the VTEC to kick in lower... now you don't want
   this at idle obviously because the low-rpm power production of the VTEC portion of the
   camshafts don't produce too much power.  In drag racing, a VTEC controller is not really
   necesary since most of us launch above 6000 rpms anyway.  But on street tires... it
   helps out.  I launch at 1700 rpm on the street.  If I wait until 5000 rpm+ for the
   VTEC I get my ass kicked out of the hole.  If I the VTEC kicks in at 3000 let's say...
   the tires don't start spinning after 6000 rpm.

   Also, to get a smooth horsepower curve, having the VTEC kick in at around 4800 rpm gives
   a relatively smooth transition.  Hardly any power spike.  Having it too low bogs
   the car in the lower rpm range and having it at 6000 is like brrrrrr...BAAAAAHHHHH
   (I just like that sound.. )

   When I had my 1.6 SOHC VTEC in the coupe I had the SPOON VTEC Controller and I actually
   raced someone about 4 times having it set at different rpms.  Launching the same, but
   varying the transition rpm, is about 1-2 car lengths (plus and minus) in the 1/4 mile.
   Now, racing someone is not as accurate as E.T, but it's allright.  If it can make a
   difference on the SOHC, think what it does on the DOHC's!!

   P.S. The SPOON VTEC Controller works on the 1992 GSR, 1992-up Civic, 1994-up GSR,
   1994-up Accords and Preludes."

   Several HP-list members have made their own VTEC controller.
   Although very basic and crude, it can be made very cheaply
   in comparison to Japanese units.

   It involves triggering the VTEC wire (off the engine ECU via +12V)
   based on RPM. MSD sells a RPM actuator device or a tap into a shift lite
   would do the same. Or you can jimmyrig one up if you're electronically inclined.

3.15 Can I just swap a VTEC cylinder head onto my non-VTEC motor?

   Nope. The best thing to do is to swap in the whole motor w/ ECU. VTEC motors have
   a different ECU setup as well as special engine block (crankshaft, oil passages,
   oil cooler, etc) to ensure high rpm longevity. The head and valevtrain just
   don't cut it alone.

3.16 What does a lightened crankshaft pulley do for me and who makes them?

   The idea here is much the same as the lightened flywheel. Reduce the amount
   of mass your engine is using energy to move. I've held a B18A OEM pulley,
   it's not extremely heavy. It is heavy enough to discourage you from dropping on your
   foot. So it looks like some power could be freed up by swapping the pulley
   out.

   Some companies making light crankshaft pulleys are Unorthodox Racing,
   Z.Speed (thought I saw it on the web page, can't find it now),
   and possibly DC Sports.

3.17 What does an underdrive pulley do?

   By changing the diameter of pulleys running off your engine you can increase
   or decrease the amount of revolutions the pulleys get (think about gear ratios
   for a moment, and general gearing thoughts) Anyhow, using an underdrive pulley
   you can make less revolutions, sapping less power. This is good to use on say
   power steering or A/C. I do think that underdriving your accessories probably
   sacrifices how well they perform. You'll probably get less steering assist
   and cooling. I don't think it's wise to mess with your alternator.

3.18 What's a blueprinted engine?

   From: mailto:alantang@mail.bogo.co.uk   www.bogo.co.uk./alantang/civic/html/civic1.htm
   "Blue printing is the most expensive way to gain power from your engine.
   It involves stripping the engine and re-building it as close a possible
   to the engineers 'blue prints' for the engine.

   Blue printing is only used in motorsport where there are strict rules on
   the mods that can be done to an engine.  Blue printing does not really
   modify the engine, only makes it closer in specification to the original
   blue print and thus more power.  However, due to this, the engine will
   also be more balanced and stronger...

   Power gains can be from zero to 40bhp... depending on engine.  With a
   Honda I guess you would gain around 15bhp...

   Due to the high labour and skill involved, blueprinting is very
   expensive.  I reckon anything from US$1000 upwards...  (this is a rough
   guess!)

   Pause for thought....  A top Ford Motorsport UK engineer said you could
   get the same results as blueprinting by driving your car to red line
   from new (no run in period) for 2,000 miles."

3.19 What's shotpeening?

   From:mailto:winco@earthlink.net   "SHOT PEENING is a method of cold working in which compressive stresses
   are induced in the exposed surface layers of metallic objects by the
   impingement of a stream of shot, directed at the metal surface at high
   velocity and under controlled conditions.  It differs from blast cleaning
   in primary purpose and in the extent to which it is controlled to yield
   accurate and reproducible results.  Although shot peening cleans the
   surface being peened, this function is incidental; the major purpose of
   shot peening is to increase fatigue strength.  The process has other
   useful applications, such as relieving tensile stresses that contribute to
   stress-corrosion cracking, forming and straightening of metal parts, and
   testing the adhesion of silver plate on steel."

   From: ASM Metals Handbook, eighth edition, volume 2, "Mechanical
   Finishing, Shot Peening", page 398, first paragraph.

4.0 Intake System

4.1 Why do I need a cold air intake?

   For every 11 degrees (F) drop in temperature, expect a 1 horsepower gain.
   Expect performance to be worse if you're sucking in hot underhood
   temperatures. Colder air makes the motor run cooler as well as being more
   dense (remember Chemistry? PV = nRT?)

   From : mailto:Jerome%20Soh%20(soh@smartt.com)   "I believe the correct numbers are as follows:

   For every 10 F drop in temperature, expect a 1% (PERCENT, not
   horsepower) increase in power.

   For every 10 C drop in temp, expect a 3% gain."

   Editor : Does anyone absolutely sure which is it?
   10 or 11 degrees?

4.2 What's ram air?

   A "ram air" setup is an intake method where the force of the car travelling
   through the air is used to literally ram air into the intake (a hood scoop
   is usually a good indication)

   From: mailto:soh@smartt.com   "A "ram air" setup is an intake setup where the input end of the intake
   system is placed facing towards the front of the car such that it can
   take in air that is at a higher pressure than that in the engine bay
   when the car is at speed.  At 60 mph, a ram air setup can provide up to
   1 psi of boost, and at 100 mph, 2 psi of boost.  Thus, a properly setup
   ram air acts like a small turbo system at high speeds (and is "free").
   Keep in mind that extending the intake hose to make the ram air setup
   introduces pressure losses (albeit minor) as the air now has to flow
   through more pipe.  Thus, keep the extension as short as possible."

4.3 What air filter is the best? Will more dirt be let in?

   There are many concerns about aftermarket performance filters working, and
   which yields the biggest horsepower.

   Some people swear by foam intakes (while dissenters say yes they yield more
   power, but let a lot of dirt in)

   Others are simply satisified by K&N or S&B filters. An oiled cotton
   filter. The idea being the porous cotton allows the air in, the oil traps
   the dirt. The K&N uses electrostatic charge to attract and capture dirt
   and dust. The oil is positively) charged, and therefore attracts dust
   and dirt, which carries a (negative) charge.

   Bottom line, a performance filter is better than the restrictive air box
   found on stock cars.

   IMHO, if tuner cars (Saleen, etc) come from the dealerships with exposed
   K&N filters, that means something about it's performance and filtering
   effect.

4.4 What intake system is the best?

   Much like 4.3, a very heated issue. Apparently Honda motors respond very well
   to cold air velocity stacked setups.

   The current favorite is the Iceman Intake System. Check out
   http://integra.vtec.net/iceman.html for a review.

   Other intakes to check out are AEM's Cold Air intake as well as the Racing
   Sports Akimoto Funnel Ram2 (filter made by K&N now, not S&B)

   From: mailto:avootk1@icarus.cc.uic.edu   "The Iceman is made out of some plastic polymer and has a joint (connected
   by rubber) near where the OEM airbox goes. It has a gradual increasing
   diameter away from the TB so there is no need for a velocity stack. The
   pipe continues from the OEM location and goes down into the passenger side
   fender well, near where the stock resonator was located. A tight turn and
   the filter is angled almost parallel to the ground. Dont know what size
   filter but it is constructed by K&N. You can get flashy colors, and
   convert the kit to a non cold air setup by connecting the filter where the
   rubber joint is instead of at the extreme end of the pipe.

   The AEM is made of coated aluminum to resist heat and is a 2.5-3" pipe I
   believe. There are no joints on this system. It simply curves down to the
   fender well, near where the stock resonator was located. A "turbo air
   horn" velocity stack connects the filter to the pipe.

   Both systems should give similar dyno results. I would expect no more than
   6-8 hp from either. Some people swear by ICEMAN, but I prefer AEM's design
   myself. Both cost around $210...but can probably be had for cheaper.
   ICEMAN is nice because of its versatility (dry land setup or wet land
   setup).  The AEM system is a full time dry land setup."

   You may also want to DIY and make your own effective intake kit with dryer
   hose for your cold air.

   Check out :
      http://integra.vtec.net/diyintake.html   and
      http://integra.vtec.net/intake.html

   Be careful with cold air systems as they may allow the engine to suck in water
   (in wetter areas) Excessive water in the engine will damage the engine
   seriously.

4.5 What's a bored out throttle body?

   The throttle body is the device which regulates air into the engine via the
   gas pedal. By enlarging it's size you can allow more air to flow through
   (hence more power) Be careful removing too much material.

   Currently JG Engine Dynamics, RC Engineering, Bullfrog GUDE, and AEM perform
   the boring. Expect a gas mileage decrease too. A bigger throttle body helps
   aggressive cams idle better.	In fact some cams require a bored throttle body.

   Throttle bodies allow more air flow across the board, so you should
   see an increase in power across the RPM board of about 3-5hp.

   Throttle bodies should lean out air/fuel ratio so you shouldn't
   have a smog problem.

4.6 What's the coolant bypass modification?

   Radiator fluid is passed through the throttle body to keep it from freezing
   shut. This also heats the air going into the motor. By removing the lines
   from the throttle body and connecting them together, you avoid the air
   heating up. So expect more power. Don't do this if it snows in your town.

   From Ali J. (muaythai@sure.net) :
   Another easy modification to cool things off is locating the coolant pipes
   that lead to the throttle body, and using a "Straight T" attach them.
   This will bypass the throttle body and keep it cool.   After all these
   modifications, I used an air temperature meter to compare this system and
   my AEM cold air system. The AEM system runs 72-152 degrees, while my system
   runs a cool 58-110 degrees.

   WARNING! You may not want to do this trick since it may cause your
   car's warming up idle to fluctuate! Somehow you need to warm up
   the fast idle thermo valve (which mounts on the underside of the TB and the
   hoses connect to). Once someone figures out how to keep this happy,
   it should be a streetable modification.

4.7 Why does my car idle bad after a t-body swap?

   From: mailto:Matt%20(mattl@hsn.net)   "Thanks to everyone that tried to help me out with my JG Throttle
   Body problems...  I have solved it!

   When I installed the throttle body, I disconnected the battery
   as to reset the ECU. For some reason it didn't reset I guess.

   I went out and purchased a Chiltons manual and tried what it
   said to disconnect the "BACKUP" fuse "HAZARD,
   BACKUP) <-for Canadian, in the underhood relay box.
   I then restarted the car, and it idled great!  I adjusted the
   idle screw back UP!  The opposite of what I thought.

   I don't know why the first ECU reset didn't do it, but the
   second time around solved it.

4.8 Why do I need to port match my intake manifold?

   The throttle body mounts to the intake manifold. Honda also places a gasket
   to seal these two parts together. By enlarging the throttle body opening,
   the intake manifold and the gasket no longer match the throttle body's
   opening. Imagine trying to flow air through a 5 inch opening then suddenly
   run into a 4 inch section. This situation may hamper air velocity more
   than the added value of allowing more air through the throttle body itself.
   Be sure to get your intake manifold match ported.

4.9 What is extrude hone?

   This is a process of pushing an abrasive mud-like compound through engine
   parts where air, fuel, or exhaust flow through. The parts become very
   smoothed out and to some extent enlargened. Speedline's DRAG turbo-equipped
   Integra showed a ~5++hp gain across the RPM board after an extrude honed
   intake manifold was added on. Probably doesn't make much of a difference on
   cars that aren't supercharged or turbocharged.

4.10 What's a resonator? Why should I remove it?

   The resonator is a plastic box that is mounted below and joining to the
   stock air intake box. It's purpose is to silence the air entering
   your engine. By removing the resonator box you open up the engine
   to more cooler air. For all manufactured cold air intakes, you must
   remove the resonator. A good trick to do is to remove the resonator
   and put some dryer hose in it's place to further channel cooler
   air into the engine. See 4.4 for more info.

4.11 Why should I adjust my throttle cable?

   As your new car breaks in, so does the throttle cable. It may develop
   slack over time that actually may prohibit you throttle body
   from ever seeing WOT. This is bad for power. If you have a friend
   press all the way down on the gas pedal, you can then verify
   the throttle cable is indeed opening the throttle body all the way.

4.12 Is there hope for a 1.5 SOHC with the lousy intake?

   No. If you need reasons talk to JG Engine Dynamics. If you need a solution,
   swap in the Si intake manifold and computer. For that much trouble
   just go hybrid. Talk to Hybrid Joe for more info on both topics.

4.13 What is the Tornado and how does it work?

   For their propaganda, visit their web site.

   From: anderson@falls.igs.net
   "To those who don't know, The "Tornado" is some aluminum or tin
   circular doo dad wth angled fins that is placed in the air intake
   tube.  It's supposed to make the passing air swirl to better mix with
   the fuel for more power and efficiency.  They cost something
   ridiculous like $70+, and here is my experience.

   First of all, it was given to me, I wouldn't pay that for
   something claiming 10%+ or something in power (too good to be true).
   I put it in my '90 integra, just behind the K&N filter.  All it did was
   made a really neat sound.  Next time I checked on it, it had slid all
   the way to the throttle body and was sideways, so I got some tin and
   extended it, plus added a fin (yep, you can make your own).  I put it
   back in, I think in front of the TB, and went on a long trip.  I
   matched my previously best milage, 600Kms by the time the gas light
   comes on.??? Coincidence???  I had even wasted some gas on that trip
   racing a VR6.  Since then, there were no noticable gains, so I took
   it out and put it in my brothers civic and he didn't notice a thing.
   I think it's still there, probably sitting sideways."

5.0 Exhaust Systems

5.1 How loud do exhausts get?

   "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder."
   Or should it be : "Loudness is in the ear of the listener"?

   Some get really loud, some drone during cruising, some aren't really loud at
   all. It's very subjective and it's hard to judge without sound measuring
   equipment. Best thing to do is to listen to systems and note the pipe diameter
   and the muffler used.

   If you can hear the car coming from 10 blocks away, I'd say that's pretty
   loud.

5.2 Which manufactured cat back system is the best?

   Much like the intake system, a very heated issue again. Current popular
   systems are Trust, Tanabe, RS*R, DC sports, and IMP.

5.3 I wanna save money and get a custom exhaust. What do I need to get?

   Good for you! First you need to find a reputable custom muffler shop. 2.25"
   inch pipe is desirable for NA setups. For turbocharged think 3" piping.
   Mandrel bent (smooth bends) are ideal to ensure minimal back pressure.
   The muffler shop should be able to recommend a straight through muffler
   (Borla -- considered the best, Ultra Flo) correctly sized for your engine to minimize noise. And
   tips are your option. Remember stainless is better for life (salt on roads?)
   but much money. And to quiet down exhaust noise, a resonator is highly recommended.
   Make sure you get a properly sized resonator so as to not hurt your power.

5.4 What are headers?

   These are the pipes leading from cylinder head down to underneath the car to
   the rest of the exhaust system. By replacing these restrictive pipes you can
   decrease backpressure and get more power.

5.5 Who makes the best headers?

   Currently, DC Sports is felt to make the best horsepower header. Some say
   Lightspeed makes a better broad range header. 4-1 (4 pipes into 1) headers
   are the best design for high revving horsepower engines, but they give up so
   much bottom end power it's not practical on the street.
   Thankfully most/all manufactured systems are 4-2-1 designs.

5.6 How much power will I get by removing my catalytic converter?

   Expect an increase, but it won't be earth shattering unless you're running some
   mean engine mods or a forced induction setup.

5.7 What are the legal consequences of removing my catalytic converter?

   If you get caught in California, it's a pretty hefty fine. $2k? Don't play,
   if you can't pay.

5.8 Should I get a ceramic coated or stainless steel header?

   Maybe both! ;D Stainless steel costs a lot of money. A good coating would cost
   another $100-$300. So you can see why manufacturers don't coat their stainless
   headers (and some people regard the purplish color of heated stainless headers
   as pretty)

   Anyhow, I would recommend ceramic coated headers to keep the heat inside
   the headers as much as possible. I've noticed the engine bay/hood areas
   pick up a lot of ambient heat from uncoated headers. Choose wisely!

   Remember, if you don't have a cold air intake : you could be picking up
   heated air from your aftermarket non coated headers!

5.9 Should I buy a high-flow catalytic converter?

   A high flow cat will outflow a stock cat. However, I doubt any cat can truly outflow
   a straight pipe in its place. ;D

   So do high flow cats really clean up the exhaust but let more flow through?
   An Integra with no cat @ idle shows about .220 ppm. Failure in California
   is .100 ppm. Average passing is .003ppm. The same Integra with a Random
   Technologies Cat put out about .120 ppm. So you're still emission wise
   illegal in California. BTW, the Integra ran perfectly clean anything
   above 2k RPMs.

   If you've got money to burn and only want to pollute the environment
   half as much for a little more power, then by all means buy a high flo
   cat.

6.0 Nitrous Oxide

   For more nitrous oxide info read http://www.primenet.com/~punchie/NOSfaq.htm
   Also check out http://onetinc.com/~stank/cars/nos.html.

6.1 Assorted Nitrous Oxide Information

   From: mailto:FuSiONSi@aol.com   Subject: NOS jet sizes

   Now correct me if I am wrong but I thought that a dry system only fogged
   nitrous into the intake. Maybe I am wrong, well NE way here is the jet size
   for a wet system, maybe it might help you

   NOS             FUEL
   43              28       80hp
   41              26       70hp
   39              24       60hp
   37              22       50hp

   From: mailto:lindsey@flash.net   Subject: Re: HP: NOS jet sizes

   jetting for a dry manifold NOS kit:
   40hp		34 nitrous/44 fuel
   50hp 	37 nitrous/42 fuel
   60hp		38 nitrous/42 fuel
   70hp		41 nitrous/36 fuel
   80hp*	44 nitrous/34 fuel+
   90hp*	46 nitrous/34 fuel+

   (*)Larger fuel pump reccomended/(+)requires a .040" shim be placed in
   the co2 regulator.(this is the large apparatus between the two solenoids
   the top will unscrew from it) you also may have to experiment with
   leaning out the fuel jet for maximum performance. Also make sure the
   line between the Stock fpr is hose clamped or that you are using the NOS
   fuel pressure safety switch otherwise you might break something you
   don't want to fix. later.


   From : mailto:amachine@pauls.net   Be careful with the dry system, the jet numbers go backwards from the
   wet/direct systems. (Ie. the higher the fuel number jet the LESS it flows).
   See turbo mag, May 96 issue for all the jettings to start with on all
   systems. I'm putting in a single fogger 60hp shot in my prelude today,
   I'll let you know what jettings we end up using.

   From : Elson Cho
   > Now correct me if I am wrong but I thought that a dry system only fogged
   > nitrous into the intake..maybe I am wrong...well NE way here
   Yea, that's right. Dry system injects nitrous into the intake. But there
   is a fuel "T" that connects to the solenoid and taps into the fuel line at
   the fuel pressure regulator. So when nitrous is injected, you need more
   fuel to compensate for this, thus the fuel jets. More nitrous, then more
   fuel. Basically, unlike the wet systems, its a single fogger with one
   outlet for the nitrous and the second part of this fogger is located at
   the "T" connector.

   From : mailto:kwoods@kens.com   No. It's 13 parts air and one part fuel. The best A/F ratio for power is
   about 12.7:1, 14:1 is "normal" and 15:1 will get you the best gas mileage.

   If you can spray, and still run 12.7:1 in the upper RPM ranges, then your
   car will make ALOT of power.  If you jet it for 60HP, and then run 15:1,
   you will make less power than if you jetted for 50HP and ran 13:1.
   Make sense???  That's why I say to install the 34N, then watch the A:F.

6.2 How much NOS can my stock engine take?

   1996-on Civic DX motor

   mailto:choman@u.washington.edu   "Not much. A 50hp system such as the 5122 dry manifold NOS kit would be
   safe on a stock block."

   B18 series motors :

   The upper limit on NOS capability seems to be around 80-120hp
   shot (direct port of course) You will need to add the appropriate
   fuel of course!

6.3 What kind of gains should I expect with NOS?

   mailto:choman@u.washington.edu   "I've dropped about 1 full sec in the 1/4 with a 50hp dry system.
   It really depends on the type of car."

   Weyland Jung has performed in the mid to high 13 second range
   using a direct port setup on his (90-91) Integra GS. Off the giggle
   gas it's reported to run solid 15s.

6.4 How much does a refill of NOS Cost (15 pounds)?

   mailto:choman@u.washington.edu   "In Seattle, Nitrous oxide goes for about $3.50/lb. 15 lbs is the weight of
   the bottle empty. There is 10 lbs of nitrous oxide in the bottle. So a
   full bottle weighs 25lbs, 10 lbs being the gas itself."

6.5 What causes NOS backfire? Why should I use a purge valve?

   From : NETTORUN@aol.com
   "I had a backfire out of my filter once []. I was told by NOS that there was
   probably an air bubble in the lines. You can sometimes trap air when you are
   removing and installing the bottle. If you add a PURGE VALVE to your kit this
   will eliminate the chance of another inicident. I [] squeezed all night. I later had
   my mechanic check the car and he said it was o.k."

7.0 Supercharging

7.1 What is it like ordering a supercharger from Jackson Racing?

   Although it's not really a performance question, I'd thought I'd put a customer
   experience in just to see the hassle you get when using one of these things.
   Let alone the installation and use. ;D

   From: mailto:ysong@slip.net   "Okay..
   I've gone up to bat for Jackson Racing and their supercharger.. I stuck
   up for them and advocated their blower even though I don't have one... I
   even put in an order around end-Feb early-March...

   but dang it, after over a month of calling and waiting, I keep getting
   answers like "it will be ready in a week" or "call back in seven
   days"...  That's all I've been getting for the last month from them!

   and oh no... today, I called them and after they told me the
   supercharger wouldn't be ready yet, I did the unthinkable.. I criticized
   them for being slow in delivering the product I ordered... "So.. why is
   this taking so long?  I'm getting really impatient here.."

   and what do they do?  They act like total assholes on the phone!
   "You know, I'd be more than happy to cancel the order if that's what you
   want.."

   great service guys.  As a matter of fact, yes, if that is the kind of
   common courtesy you give to paying customers, then yes, I will cancel
   that order.

   Shoot.  Maybe Ken Woods was right after all..."


   From: mailto:doctoryes@earthlink.net   "I read your mail message this morning and contacted Larry at ENDYN who
   called Oscar Jackson at Jackson Racing.  He stated that he had been in
   the orient and had just returned and that the reason for the delay is as
   follows:

   The supercharger has an accessory drive system for the alternator which
   must be relocated to install the kit.  Previously the idler pulleys on
   this assembly and the bolts associated with it were SAE.  They ran out
   of units and decided to redesign the unit using metric nuts and bolts -
   a good idea.  And while they were at it they decided to modify the
   design so that you could install a variety of different sized pulleys on
   the supercharger to alter the boost levels - another good idea.  There
   were some production problems (CNC milling machine broke down) as well,
   but Oscar assured us that kits would be available next week.

   Oscar also looked up your order and said that you had cancelled it
   yesterday.  During this conversation it was implied that you would be
   worth your time to call back and discuss your order after May 1st.

   Good luck on whatever your decision is,
   Ozzie"

   [Ed : Boy don't you love it when the company sells the product
   to the public and uses the 1st wave of buyers for R&D?? To be
   fair, a lot of tuners are guilty of this]

8.0 Turbocharging

   Greddy offers a pretty good basic picture of how a turbocharged engine works :
   http://www.greddy.com/turbo.html

   Remember, Honda engines are normally aspirated engines. They tend to run
   a more aggressive compression ratio than an OEM turbocharged engine.
   So you're limited to how much boost you can spool.

   Justin offers some engine and boost advice :

   "It is not recommended to run over 7 psi of boost on stock pistons. Stock
   Integra rods can take up to 10 psi of boost on a daily driver GSR and the
   occasional 12-14 psi. Any more boost on a day to day basis or the occasion
   14 psi at the track, you better get better rods.

   The safest turbo applications generally follow these rules:
    5 psi : intercooler
    7 psi : pistons
   10 psi : DFI or something to look after your fuel and timing
   12 psi : rods

   DFI is a little extreme, but then again, how often
   do we want to take apart our motor."

8.1 What's in a DRAG turbo kit system?

   mailto:touchwood@mindspring.com :
   "Just called DRAG, and this is the information they gave me over the phone
   for a '92-'93 VTEC GSR:

   Exhaust manifold [Ed : Last I saw, was welded, stainless optional]
   Garrett T4/T3 hybrid turbo
   Remote wastegate [Ed : Last I saw, was HKS]
   Exhaust downpipe
   Air-to air intercooler
   Chrome intake pipes
   HKS sequential blowoff valve
   High-pressure / high-volume fuel pump
   Boost dependent fuel pressure regulator
   Boost gauge
   Braided steel oil lines
   Water lines for turbo
   MAP sensor bypass
   All silicone hoses and clamps
   Works w/ABS and A/C
   10 psi, 300 flywheel hp
   $3995"

8.2 Does VTEC work well with turbocharging?

   From: Frank/G.speed (fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com)
   "Normally aspirated cams, especially high RPM oriented such as DOHC
   VTEC's have longer duration and overlap.  when you use force induction,
   you don't need all this duration and overlap...  a properly engineering
   VTEC cam for turbo applications would offer KILLER torque curve and
   power."

   Overlap is used as a way of exiting exhaust gases to actually suck in
   the intake charge. This is partly what VTEC does, kind of a wanna be
   turbocharger. So imagine if you have a lot of overlap on a turbo.
   Under boost, the compressed air would blow right through the cylinder.
   You wouldn't get all that quality compressed air to stay in the cylinder!

   This is why B18A/B motors respond so well to turbocharging with
   cam sprockets and JG Engine Dynamics #1001 camshafts. The camshafts
   are used to maintain peak cylinder pressure and sprockets dial it all in.
   The turbocharger can cram all of it's boost into the cylinder.

   So far no one has good turbo VTEC cams. It is questionable whether
   or not sprockets can dial enough overlap out to use 100% of the turbocharger's
   output.

   VTEC motors do respond well to turbocharging, but there's still a lot of room
   for improvement.

8.3 How much horsepower will a Greddy Bolt-On Turbo Civic make?

   From: mailto:punchie@primenet.com   Some 95 or so Civic had the Greddy kit on the dyno over at Dynamic Autosports.  Made
   like 145 +- 3HP.

8.4 How is boost regulated?

   A turbo's boost is typically regulated by a wastegate. A wastegate
   reroutes some exhaust flow around the turbo, thereby not allowing
   the turbo to spin any faster. Some wastegates can be adjusted,
   others cannot. Whatever the case, the wastegate's signal to open comes
   from the compressor side of the turbo itself. This air pressure signal is
   linear and gets stronger as boost increases. Performance wise, this kind
   of regulation is bad because the wastegate always stays open under
   boost. Only electronic boost controllers are able to keep the wastegate
   shut as long as possible (thereby reaching max boost faster).

8.5 What's the difference between a manual and an electronic boost controller?

   A manual boost controller either bleeds off or restricts the air pressure
   signal going to the wastegate. In effect, the wastegate is fooled into
   staying shut longer (thus allowing more exhaust to spin the turbo,
   thus making more boost). MBCs aren't very precise but they're really
   cheap and do work. They are prone to boost spiking because they aren't very
   complicated devies. Normally as boost builds, the wastegate
   creeps open. However w/ a MBC in the middle, when the pressure signal does
   indeed become strong enough to open the wastegate, the MBC doesn't allow
   the wastegate to open completely. Call it wastegate delay if you will.
   A resulting boost spike happens (as the turbo happily spins unregulated).
   It doesn't last long (by human standards), but hey funny things can
   happen when you don't have enough fuel for the boost.

   From: mailto:jhso@ucdavis.edu   "Like I said, manual boost controller tend not to be accurate since they
   do not account for weather, temperature, barometer pressure etc. etc.. You
   really do get what you pay for and for the DSM guys who keep telling me
   that the 10-11 sec DSM cars are using manual boost controllers, good for you...
   but you do not have experience with turbo hondas... all I gotta say is that
   the damn deltagates and the TVVC's or the VBC's don't work that well. well
   good luck..."

   Electronic controllers differ in that they usually have a small microprocessor
   using an expensive air pressure solenoid. With such sophisticated technology,
   they can regulate the wastegate more precisely. The wastegate stays shut long
   enough, and the EBC can effectively open/close the wastegate. EBCs can
   also precisely maintain a boost level (so your motor never does exceed that
   fine line of running great and a blown up motor) They also handle
   environmental changes quite well.

8.6 What's the best boost controller?

   The HKS EVC III/IV is considered to be the best damn unit. However,
   A'PEXi's AVC-R makes a strong bid to upset the EVC's title.
   There are many reports of problems with Greddy's Profec.
   Interestingly enough, they've released a Profec B w/o fuzzy logic.

8.7 What's a blow off valve? Do I need it adjustable?

   A blow off valve mechanically performs similarly to a wastegate (a pressure
   signal causes it to open. Whereas a wastegate reroutes exhaust around the turbo,
   a BOV reroutes compressed air into the atmosphere or back into the intake
   side of the turbo). A BOV vents compressed air during upshifts (when the
   throttle plate slams shut) If the BOV wasn't there, the compressed air has
   no where to go but back into the turbo (bad bad bad). People usually associate
   turbocharged cars with BOVs (cool sound!)

   A BOV compares two pressure readings (one after the throttle plate, and
   one before) If the pressure pre-throttle plate is greater than the post
   throttle plate pressure, than the BOV opens and vents the pre-throttle
   plate air. So a BOV performs three things 1) Prolongs turbo life
   2) Increases turbo response (when vented to atmosphere, sometimes
   venting back into the intake hurts response), and 3) Sounds cool.

   You need it adjustable because at part throttle under boost, the
   pre-throttle pressure may be greater. So you need some degree of
   flexibility so as to not have the BOV open under part throttle
   while on boost.

9.0 Ignition

   Remember the spark plug gap allows only a certain amount of energy to jump.
   More energy won't jump across unless you also widen the spark
   plug gap. The gap distance determines the voltage requirements
   for a spark. There's a reason why OEM plug wires are very resistive,
   you don't need a huge amount of current to fire the plug, you need
   a great deal of voltage (V = IR, typical plug wires are in k Ohms,
   voltage is really high, current is really low)

   The voltage (V) is constant in your ignition system due to the physical properties
   of your ignition coil. Keep this in mind when you read the following sections.

9.1 Will changing my plug wires give me more hp?

   Recall that Current = Voltage / Resistance (I=V/R), as resistance
   goes down, current goes up. For you math inclined types :
         The limit of I as R->0 = infinity.

   The least resistive plug wires will transmit more of the available
   current to the plug electrode (ensuring that a consistent good spark
   will happen).

   If the plug wires are prohibiting full power transfer of your ignition
   system in turn causing a weak spark for the combustion process, then
   changing them out will yield more power. Otherwise plug wires alone
   cannot give you more hp.

   Nology manufactures wires with capacitors inline. Theoretically they lower
   the discharge time thereby increasing electrical power. Do recall
   the above information before purchasing Nology wires.

   From: mailto:sin@value.net   "I own a 95 GST which I use as a daily driver, and which has signifigant
   performance modifications.  I currently use magnecor 8.5mm wires.
   Regardless of the mods, and this includes the spark plug wires, I can
   still get 30mpg under "average" or highway driving.  Wires will ONLY
   increase performance or mpg when you are replacing old beat-up wires which
   were hurting your car's performance/mpg in the first place."

9.2 What kind of plugs should I use?

   Stick with the OEM NGK plugs. If you're running forced induction or
   nitrous oxide you may want to consider switching to a different plug.
   You may elect to run a colder plug (see owner's manual for part numbers)
   if you're modified since your car will be running a bit hotter.
   Since the motor is running hotter, your plugs will be running hotter.
   A hot plug may cause the air/fuel mixture to auto-ignite (detonation)

   Anyone wanna submit their favorites for these respective setups?

9.3 What does a colder/hotter plug mean?

   These terms refer to the operating temperature of the plug. The ceramic
   portion of the plug is longer allowing less heat transfer from the plug
   to the cylinder head (increasing the plug's operating temperature)
   In other words : a longer ceramic makes a longer path, a longer path
   means more resistance to heat flow, more resistance to heat flow means
   less heat loss, less heat loss means higher temperatures.
   In this case it's a hotter plug. A colder plug works the opposite way.

   For heavily modified cars, you always want to run a colder plug in order to
   avoid detonation from extreme operating temperature (see glow plugs in
   diesel engines. Explanation : Glow plugs in diesel engines are not actually
   spark plugs. They are merely heat coils that auto-ignite the air/fuel
   mixture. No spark. So when running heavy duty modified engines,
   check your exhaust gas temperature and then select your plug
   heat range accordingly.

9.4 Why do I need to upgrade my ignition system?

   The more air you pack into a cylinder the more difficult it is for a spark to
   jump across the plug gap. An ignition upgrade is a must for forced induction
   setups as well as big nitrous oxide shots. This is to ensure that your
   (OEM) coil is quickly and electrically capable of consistent high voltage
   outputs with a good chunk of current.

9.5 How does advancing timing improve power?

   From my understanding, engine ECU's advance the timing to the max spec allowed
   at higher RPM's. So expect advanced timing to only help at lower to mid
   range RPMs. Advanced timing tends to make throttle response crisper
   and bumps up the power a bit down low.

   However if you advance the timing too much, you may get detonation
   at lower rpm's. What happens is the air/fuel ignites, but the engine
   speed is way too low. These two opposing forces meet and your engine
   starts making lovely knocking sounds.

   So be careful when advancing your timing, and listen at lower RPMs for
   detonation.

9.6 How do I advance my timing?

   For detailed instructions check out http://integra.vtec.net/timing.html

9.7 What does indexing plugs do and how do I do it?

   This is one of those every little bit helps modifications. Don't expect
   a huge increase, but it does help a little. I believe Ken Woods
   mentioned it was probably good for a .5% increase in hp. It originates
   from those hardcore drag racing machines which translates into a bigger
   chunk of horsepower for their motors.

   Ideally the plug should be facing the the intake valves. What that means
   is the open side of the plug (opposite of the electrode prong) faces
   the intake valves. This promotes a much better air+fuel burn.

   Sometimes when tightening your plugs, they will be positioned correctly.
   For those times they do not line up, you will need to purchase spark
   plug indexing washers. These work by varying the thickness of the washer,
   allowing more or less threading rotation; thus aligning the plug
   towards the intake valves. You can buy the washers at Summit or your local
   muscle car shop usually.

9.8 When should I widen my spark plug gap?

   If you have upgraded your ignition system, you may want to consider widening
   your gap by just a little bit (not too much!). Consult your ignition's
   manufacturer for gap recommendations. With the added punch of an upgraded
   ignition system and plug wires, you now have more electrical power to jump
   the gap. But remember, this extra power can only be put to use
   with a wider gap. Don't get gap happy though, because there's a point
   of diminishing returns. It's probably not worth gapping larger
   unless you have an upgraded coil.

9.9 Why should I examine my spark plugs?

   By examining your spark plugs, you can determine how your engine is
   runing air/fuel ratio wise. You don't want to run too rich or too lean
   and your spark plugs are a good indication of what's happening.

   mailto:kwoods@kens.com says :
   "A light tan is good, and what you are aiming for.
    Black means too much fuel
    White means not enough fuel."

    My Diamond Star Motors friend says the best way to check your air/fuel
    ratio under W (ide) O (pen) T (hrottle) (pedal to the floor)
    is to put in a fresh set of plugs. Make a WOT pass and immediately shut
    down the car, and brake to a stop with engine off. Then check your plugs.
    Although this maneuver may be highly illegal on a public road, it guarantees
    a good plug reading.

9.10 What good is an ignition unit rev limiter?

    Not much. Your Honda engine ECU already has a built in rev limit you
    cannot exceed. If you do desire to kick in your rev limit earlier,
    than an aftermarket ignition unit with a rev limiter can do so
    for you. Usually, the ignition unit will offer a drop sparks
    in a more gentler manner for the the motor.

9.11 Do Nology wires deliver horsepower improvements?

    This is another heated issue. Some people claim they saw horsepower gains,
    others claim they do not. Some say the wires cause interference with on board
    electronics. Others claim they need upgraded engine grounding wires to reap
    their benefits.

    From Nology's website :
    "Anyone that had physics in college knows the formula for power. In this case we're
    referring to ignition spark power. Power equals work divided by time, (P=W/t). Thus,
    to get more power, you have to do the same amount of work in less time. Manufacturers
    of conventional ignition systems though, want you to believe that it is possible to
    increase the power of ignition systems by lengthening the spark duration. This is not true!
    Lengthening the spark duration actually reduces spark power, as we already know, (P=W/t)."

    Nology offers a very convincing argument why their product should make engines
    produce more power.

    Although I have a few problems with their electrical/engine argument, I definitively
    don't know enough to dis/prove their claims.

    I would like to point out that :

    1) Nology has a very low resistance plug wire (too low for street use?)

    2) Must use special expensive Beru plugs

    3) Besides shortening the time of discharge, the wires do nothing
       to bolster the energy side of the equation.

    4) Interestingly enough, Nology now sells a coil to complement
       their wires.

    5) In car stereo circles, capacitors are used to stabilize power fluctuations
       when amplifiers are driven hard. These capacitors in no way make
       the amplifier generate more output wattage (power). How do Nology
       capacitors differ?

9.12 [VTEC] Should I run stock platinum plugs or switch to copper?

   First off, platinum is an inferior conductor compared to copper.
   Platinum does however hold up against corrosion and in terms of life
   far better than copper.

   Usually it comes down to, do you want to replace copper plugs more often
   or platinum plugs once in a while?

   From: mailto:tongnp@cig.mot.com   "In searching for 60k tuneup parts for my 93 Prelude VTEC, I spoke
   with the NGK-California technical rep.  My stock plugs are
   the NGK-platinums which can cost as much as $19.74/ea from a Honda
   dealer to $12/ea at NOPI.

   After speaking with Craig at NGK-CA, he had indicated that I am only
   getting longer life out of the NGK-plat.  He highly advised me to
   purchase the regular NGK-resister plugs because the copper tip is a
   better thermal conductor and would perform better under hard acceleration.
   The life of the NGK-resistor plug is around 15K-20K miles.

   The normal NGK-resistor plugs are for $2.99 at Car Quest.  I'm going
   to get the NGK-resistor plugs and keep a log of the gas mileage for
   every fill up to see if there's any difference.

   If there's no performance difference and decrease in gas mileage, I'd
   stick with the less expensive resistor plugs.  Otherwise, I'll have to
   go back to the ultra-expensive platinums."

   From: mailto:acblack@outwest.net   "It's the right decision to use the regular NGK plugs. I think Honda is
   only switching over to platinum becuase they want to make their cars look
   like they need less routing maintenance.... (AKA 100k miles between
   tuneups! CRAP!)"

10.0 Transmission

10.1 Why does my transmission crunch during shifts? How do I fix it?

   Persistent crunching during shifts may be an indication of bad synchros
   in the transmisson.

   Sometimes a rough tranny needs a simple transmission fluid change. Many racers
   have had success with using Redline MTL transmission fluid in their Honda
   gearboxes. Redline also has a new ShockProof transmission fluid now.

   Also, be sure you're always rev (RPM) matching when shifting. This is
   especially so during downshifting. The 2nd --> 1st gear shift tends to be
   stiff at times. A careful blip of the gas pedal in neutral to bring the tach
   to about 5k RPM may be required to get the shifter to slip into 1st gear.

   For those with hydraulic clutches, make sure your master cylinder's seals
   are good. Otherwise your clutch may not be full engaging/disengaging
   when pressing on the clutch pedal.

10.2 What's clutch chatter?

   This phenomenon results from a clutch that repeatedly grabs hold of the
   flywheel and then loses it's grip. You will notice clutch chatter the most
   in 1st gear accelerating from a complete stop. The whole car will shudder
   as the clutch slips and then grabs... then repeats. Eventually the clutch
   should catch, and off you go.

   Typically performance/racing clutches have some to severe clutch chatter.
   To some extent you can avoid the chatter by riding on (aka slipping) the
   clutch.

10.3 What's a good performance clutch to get?

   Again, another heated issue. Some recommend Centerforce, others warn that for
   some FWD transmissions they use rebuilt aftermarket clutches and neglect to
   use the weights.

   Current clutch players are :

      Bullfrog, JG Engine Dynamics, Centerforce, Clutchmasters,
      RPS Turbo Clutch, and Dynamic AutoSports/Action Double D.

10.4 Why should I lighten my flywheel?

   The idea behind this is to reduce the amount of weight your engine uses power
   to move. One heavy item to shave weight off is the flywheel. For street, it's
   recommended to shave off about 5 lbs. For racing, you may consider removing
   even more. The negative effect of lightening your flywheel is the loss of
   rotational mass inertia when accelerating from a stop. Without careful
   clutch and throttle work you may stall the engine more often. Be sure to
   rebalance your flywheel after lightening.


   From: mailto:fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com   "My friend had his B17A flywheel (18 lbs) machined down to 12 lbs.  The
   materials were taken off the back of the wheel, and mostly just the
   rough castings removed."

   From: lowell@smartt.com
   "What you have to consider is the rotational inertia [when lightening], as
   that's what's important here.  My stock flywheel weighed in around 18lbs,
   and I removed about 5.5-6lbs. The thing to look at though, is where did
   the weight come off?  Notice that there is an outer 'ring' on the back of
   the flywheel and that's where a good chunk of material comes off.  I machined
   the back side flat, and just skimmed off all the rough casting surface on the
   rest of the back so I don't think I compromised the strength in any way.
   For the extra 2-3 lbs you'd save, I don't think a billet flywheel is worth
   the insane price.

   Just take it to a machine shop you trust, and have them cut the back of the
   flywheel.  Please don't drill any holes in it though.  If you're really
   worried, an SFI scattersheild would be the answer."

10.5 What's a limited slip differential (LSD) ?

   Conventional transmissions have an open differential. This allows both
   wheels to spin independently. Under certain conditions,
   having them spin independently isn't ideal (launching). At the same time,
   having them both spinning at the same rate isn't a good solution
   either (a welded differential doesn't take turns gracefully). Enter the
   limited slip differential. This mechanical device replaces your open
   differential and allows your wheels to spin independently. Once a certain
   threshold of wheel slippage happens, the LSD causes power to be transferred
   to the wheel with more traction. This allows engine power to be put down during
   huge torque launches or powering through a turn.

   From : mailto:fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com   "A torque sensing (TorSen) and torque biasing (Quaife) LSD, which [both] operate on
   the same principle NEVER lock.  When one wheel starts to slide, torque is
   progressively transfered to the wheel with more traction. Under
   most circumstances there [is] no wheel slippage.  Under certain
   conditions wheel slip will occur slightly."

   "There are three popular types of LSD available for Honda's :

   - Torque sensing/biasing; worm gear type - Honda Type-R, Quaife,
   TorSen...

   These units use complex (some say surprisingly simple) gears
   to automatically adjust the torque split. It will give more
   torque to the wheel with more grip. It works as we computer dudes
   called "automagically".  Reputed to be excellent for street use.  Will
   not work with one wheel in the air. [Ed. note : see warning about
   LSD care]

   - Clutch packs - Mugen, Cusco, CRE...

   The most popular LSD used for road racing/autox applications. Clutch pack
   type uses multiple friction discs to limit the slip. They do wear out but
   they are rebuildable. Locking percentage depends on the builder. Will work
   with one wheel in air.  Response time is quick.  One way LSD - locks
   under acceleration only.  Two way LSD - will lock under acceleration and
   deceleration.  1.5 way (Cusco) - ?!  I saw an article in Japanese but I
   dunno how to read it.  :-)

   - Viscous coupling.  Honda Real-Time 4WD.

   Used as the center differential in the Honda Wagon. Also used by other cars
   such as Porsche 959 (center diff), Nissan SR20DE (NX2000, SE-R, Infiniti G20),
   Diamond Star Motors Eclipse/Talon/Laser AWD (center diff). Uses special fluids
   that thickens quickly when one axle starts to spin. Response is slightly retarded
   but works great as the center diff.  As a FWD diff it works okay, better than
   a open diff any day!

   Dave from Nevada sez :
   "about parking a straght axel honda:  did anyone see some of the cars
   at the Battle trying to turn around ?  yeah, i watched one car do a
   12 point turn, just to turn 90 degrees..."

10.6 Should I use a Type R LSD or Quaiffe?

    From : mailto:fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com    "Unlike clutch type LSD's, Quaife/Torsen units do not wear out.
    Torque split is continously variable.  About the only drawback
    on Quaife/Torsen units is the higher cost when compared to
    clutch pack and/or viscous LSD's.  Quaife/Torsen's work very well
    for FWD applicaitons, because the torque transfer is very smooth,
    unlike clutch packs which tend to be very abrupt and tends to
    cause undesirable steering effects...  but it still comes down
    to driver preference and track testing results.  Most BTCC cars
    use clutch packs, as serious FWD race cars often lift the inside
    front tire on corners...  Quaife/Torsen's do not work when a
    wheel becomes unloaded in air.

    As far as which one to get, that depends on how much Honda will
    sell the Type-R Torsen's for.  Quaife's are about $1200.  If
    the Honda units are cheaper, then I'd go for that.

    LSD, Clutch/Flywheel, Gearbox are all interchangable between B18C/B16A."

10.7 If I have a LSD, do I need to care for it differently?

    Yes you do! Otherwise you may actually damage the LSD.
    Straight from Honda, here are things you shouldn't do on a LSD equipped Honda :

    1) Never mix wheel/tire combinations from side to side (DO NOT USE A SPARE TIRE
       if you get a flat in front, use one from the back!)

    2) Do not run the engine to on-car wheel balance your wheels&tires.
       Your balancer must be self-driven and both wheels must be completely
       of the ground. You may damage the LSD if you don't follow these directions!

10.8 What kind of aftermarket flywheels are out there?

   From: mailto:fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com   "There are few companies selling the 3.5kg/7.7lbs flywheel made by
   Toda Power.  However, few companies also have their own.  HKS has
   their 11 lbs units, Trust has their own, Mugen has their own, Feel's
   offers a aluminum unit and a steel (still lighter than stock) units.
   Spoon's flywheel are in house too.

   Most of these flywheels have a steel friction face that can be replaced
   if it's worn out.  The flywheels that are available here right now are
   HKS, Spoon, and Clutch Masters (only 3.2kg/7.04lbs).

   All flywheels for B16A, B17A, B18A/B/C should be interchagable.  I'll
   add some more pix later (http://www.ccnet.com/~fmlin/pbh)."

10.9 Is my speedometer accurate when I am gunning for a top speed run?

   Speedometers are notoriously inaccurate at high speeds due to
   tire deformation and speedo calibration etc. So no they're not
   very accurate. And please don't endanger people on public
   roads shooting for a top speed test of your vehicle.

   Someone writes :
   "My speedo was showing an honest 148 once on my gs-r suh-dan.  That may actually
   be possible with a downhill grade and a tailwind - but even so, it's not likely
   accurate.  And my Prelude is showing right at 100mph or so when I hit the traps
   but the slips always say 91-92ish.  So far the most I've seen on the Prelude
   speedo is 130ish, though."

11.0 Brakes

11.1 What's brake fade?

   There's a couple kinds of brake fade. Brake fade is the inability of the car's
   braking system to function properly due to overuse of the brakes.

   Heat is the main culprit. There are many things to upgrade to prolong maximum
   brake performance.

11.2 What performance brake pads do I buy?

   Again, another heated issue (is this getting to be a cliche yet?) You need
   to determine whether or not you car needs race brake pads or street
   enthusiast ones.

   Racing brake pads tend to leave a very stubborn dust on wheels and the body
   paint. This requires constant cleaning lest it bonds permanently. Some race
   pads are extremely noisy and may even destroy rotors in a few
   days/weeks/months (depending on how you drive!)

   Many people have had good success with Repco/Axxis MetalMaster pads. Other
   brands to look into are Hawk, Performance Friction, and Porterfields.

11.3 Why should I use cross drilled/slotted rotors?

   Theoretically, the extreme heat build up between the brake pad and the rotor
   causes gases to be released from the brake pad. The pad is then riding on
   this thin layer of gas and is not able to fully contact the rotor. You push
   harder on the brakes but even more gases are released and so the braking
   effectiveness is decreased. This is known as pad fade. A cross drilled or
   slotted rotor provides a channel for the gases to evacuate.

   Be careful using drilled rotors since they may cause uneven brake pade wear
   and sometimes are prone to cracking (the drilling causes weakness in the
   rotor)

   It should be mentioned by drilling the rotors, you will actually create less
   surface area to dissipate heat. Your mileage may vary with cross drilled
   rotors.

   Other shops slot their rotors. This involves creating a groove (slot) into the
   rotor. The idea behind this modification is to allow an edge on the rotor for
   the brake pad to bite into. By slotting the rotors, you can ensure even brake
   pad wear as well. Theoretically the slotting of rotors would increase surface
   area, so you might be able to expect a cooler rotor.

   IMHO, I upgrading your rotors may not be a worthwhile effort. I would only
   do so if you have a severe brake fade problem. Most street enthusiast
   driving does not punish the brakes hard enough.

11.4 What kind of brake fluid should I use? What's wet and dry boiling temperature?

   When brake fluid gets hot enough it boils. Like many other aspects of
   automotive performance, high temperature brake fluid has its compromise.
   In order to make a brake fluid withstand high temperatures, it tends to
   absorb water very quickly. Thus all brake fluids are rated at two
   temperatures, wet (absorbed water) and dry (no water).

   WARNING! High performance brake fluids tend to absorb water quickly,
   and some need to be bled before each race. Bleeding your brake fluid is
   important to your master cylinder life. On aged hondas, its common for the
   Master Cylinder to go bad gradually. If you notice that the brakes are mushy
   and start to fade in traffic or on hot days, especially if it you've just bled
   the brakes, then you've got a bad Master Cylinder. Your local big parts store
   should have rebuilt master cylinders with a life time warranty for not too
   much money. Fix it fast or you may regret it.  We don't want to have to tell
   your next-of-kin that we told you so.

   Again a lot of people have their favorites of fluid to purchase. Motul, Castrol
   Heavy Duty, Wilwood 570, Lucas Girling DOT 5.1, and Super ATE.

11.5 Do aftermarket brake lines improve stopping distances?

   In a word no. Aftermarket lines improve the feel of the brakes; offering
   a firmer, more positive feeling of control to the driver. A low buck tuner
   way to make the brake lines firmer feeling is to use zip ties around the
   softer OEM brake lines.

11.6 Who makes brake lines? And is DOT approval necessary?

   From mailto:fmlin@ccnet3.ccnet.com   "When Z.Speed looked into getting DOT approval for their stainless lines, they
   found that there is no certification process. There is a spec for brake lines
   however.  Z.Speed's lines meets or exceeds the DOT standard.

   When SMC first started selling lines (early 96), they were selling Goodridge
   lines (which claimes to be the 1st DOT approved lines). I'm not sure if SMC sell
   their own lines now.

   Stillen also recently started to market Goodridge lines."

12.0 Wheels

12.0 Wheel basics (offset, diameter, width)

   Diameter : This refers to the diameter of the wheel. Most people regard
   a large wheel as attractive. Remember larger wheels tend to weigh more.

   Offset : This refers to the distance in mm between the centerline and
   the mounting surface of the wheel. If you're unsure of what this means check
   out http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/wheeltech.htm for a diagram better
   illustrating this.

   Width : This refers to how wide the wheel is. This determines what tire widths
   the wheel can accomodate. The general width rule is that the wheel width
   should be no less than 70% of the tire width.

12.1 I wanna get a set of wheels, how do I make sure they're gonna fit?

   When choosing wheels and tires, it's a good idea to ensure that the overall
   diameter of the new combination is +/- 2% of the OEM configuration. Your
   speedometer will be changed as well as your effective gear ratio. You may
   want to rethink your car's shift points.

   Once you've determined what wheel diameter you're interested in, and what
   tires size will make a good combination ... it's time to measure your
   inner clearance. I'd recommend turning your car's front wheels completely
   to the left and right and checking clearance.

   Also jack up one corner of the car at a time to compress the opposite corner
   of the car. Doing this you can get an idea of what kind of clearance your car
   has under hard cornering or loaded down.

   If you're looking for a way to calculate wheel/tire combinations, check out :
   http://mr2.com/cgi-bin/tires.cgi

12.2 How do I buy the best set of wheels for handling and acceleration?

   For handling, the widest width for the tire and lightness are desirable. The
   wider wheel ensures a stabler tire contact patch and minimizes tire sidewall
   flex. You're sure to get as much of your tire rubber down on the pavement
   where it needs to be. Having light wheels reduces the amount of unsprung
   weight. Unsprung weight is an area we'll neglect to mention, but suffice it
   so say less is good. For more wheel information, again consult :
   http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/wheeltech.htm

   For acceleration, you want lightness and perhaps a shorter wheel/tire
   combination than the stock setup. With lighter wheels, the engine uses less
   power accelerating the wheels' mass. With a shorter tire/wheel combination,
   you can effectively change your gear ratio for the better. Don't go too short,
   otherwise you'll have to shift every 20 feet. ;D

   From: mailto:KinL@adepttech.com   "I had the opportunity to weigh a couple of 16" wheels when I had my new
   wheels & tires installed this past week.  I decided to do this after an
   inspiring discussion with Jerome on "weigh reduction" at our last
   "rained out" drag meet.

   I weighed 4 different wheels that were available to me -- all were 16".
   The results were:
   	TSW Blade	16 lbs each	$280Cdn
   	TSW Hock R	18 lbs each	$290Cdn
   	Inter Milano	13 lbs each	$300Cdn
   	ASA FS-6	16 lbs each	$160Cdn

   For further comparison, I weighed my stock tires & wheels to compare
   them to the new 16" wheels.  FYI, I have a 1990 Integra GS 4-door, so
   the factory wheels were the full face style that had about 21
   unidirectional slits around the edge.  The results were:
   	33 lbs each	Factory 14" mag + Yoko AVS U+4 in 195/60-14
   	36 lbs each	ASA 16" mag + Toyo FZ4 in 205/45-16

   My conclusions from this:
    - Expensive mags are not necessary the lightest.
    - The more open the mag's style, the more likely that it's lighter.
    - Larger size tires weigh more.  Especially performance tires that has
      a firmer construction (in plys and belts)."

   [Ed : Generally bigger wheels will weigh more than smaller wheels.
   Think about it. Also, I'd expect a tire and air to weigh less
   than solid metal itself. Don't you think? Remember don't go
   with too heavy wheels! Some Japanese wheels are made
   to be light SSR Type X wheels for example. 11lbs each I think.]

   From: mailto:ctprentiss@ucdavis.edu   "The 5 Zigen Div.3s are pretty light at 12pds for the 16". "

   From: mailto:rizzye@sfsu.edu   "SSR TYPE X			10.5lbs
   MUGEN SUPER WEAPON RNR	4.95kgs
   SPOON SPORTS SW388		3.88kgs"

12.3 What's a hubcentric wheel? Why do I need hubcentric adapters?

   OEM wheels are hubcentric. They are produced in such a way that they fit snugly
   on the hub (wheel mount location). The hub has a ridge on it that mates to the
   backside of the wheel. This is done to ensure proper centering
   of the wheel on the hub.

   Aftermarket wheels are usually overbored on the backside for different car applications.
   Special adapter rings are manufactured for individual cars to ensure their wheel is
   hub-centered when mounted.

   If not properly centered, you can have a steering wheel shimmy.

13.0 Tires

   People look at tires primarily in these ways : cost, life, noise, wet
   performance, and dry performance.

   Manufacturers take all of these factors and more into account when making
   tires. Currently there is no miracle tire that will do everything you want
   the best. So choose your tire carefully within your budget.

13.1 Will I really sacrifice my ride comfort with low profile tires?

   It's not so much the low profile tires, it's more of the volume of air you
   have now. If you've chosen a wise tire/wheel combination and haven't reduced
   your volume of air much, expect your ride quality to be the same.

13.2 What's a good tire pressure to set?

   For cornering, you usually want enough air pressure in the tire to avoid
   tire rollover. Tire rollover is indicated by the scuff marks you see	on
   the sidewall after some spirited driving.

   Here's an easy test to figure out how much rollover there is : Put some
   chalk across the outer edge of your tire until 1 - 2 inches onto the
   sidewall. You can use shoe polish too. Go out and take a turn hard.
   Wherever the tire met the pavement is where your marks will be missing.
   So you can determine how much rollover you're experiencing! Start with
   recommended tire pressures from the factory and add or reduce air psi
   until you like the ride quality and cornering attitude.

   Remember FWD Hondas usually understeer by design. You usually want more
   tire rollover in back in order to make the rear end turn better.

13.3 How do I pick a good tire?

   It all depends on how you define "good" Usually the best gripping tires wear
   out in less than 30k miles, some even as little as 10k miles (any NSX owners
   out there?) If you choose a reputable company's top notch Z rated tire, you
   won't be disappointed although you will notice a hefty price tag on them.
   Budget accordingly.

   Some good high performance tires are Dunlop Sp Sport 8000, Yokohama AVS-i,
   Bridgetsone S0-1, etc etc

13.4 Why do my tires wear out fast on my lowered Honda?

   Engineers design the suspension of a car to perform certain alignment
   changes when under compression (weight transfer, bodyroll, cornering, etc)
   Usually a typical Honda suspension experiences toe in as well as
   negative camber under cornering. This is done to ensure the car
   maintains as much tire footprint as possible under cornering.
   So when you lower the car, the suspension becomes
   partially compressed causing your suspension to think you're
   cornering 24 hours/day. While this is great for cornering,
   this is bad for tire life for long distance driving.
   When driven in a straight line, the tires ride on the inner
   most edge causing extremely short tire life. IMHO, it's
   the combination of toe in and negative camber that causes
   rapid tire wear (see NSX owners' tire woes)

   To correct the camber, you usually need to purchase some kind of
   camber kits. See camber kits.

14.0 Suspension

   Stiffer isn't better. Be VERY careful when modifying your suspension. Make
   sure you understand what you're trying to fix by switching out parts and
   changing alignment settings.

   Make sure your familiar with the principles of weight transfer as well as
   understeer and oversteer. Keep in mind your vehicle's weight distribution
   and drivetrain layout.

14a.0 Springs

14a.1 How low can I go?

   This is a very personal question you should ask yourself. :D There are
   hundreds of hopped up Hondas with ground clearance of no more than a few
   inches. Some say this is attractive looking and good for cornering.

   Although a lower center of gravity is desirable, the struts on these
   cars are usually riding on the bumpstops. This results in suspension
   bottoming very frequently (not a very comfortable experience) With the
   limited range of travel, you may actually hinder the suspensions ability to
   put down the maximum tire contact patch on uneven roads (which road is ever
   perfectly clean and flat eh?)

   Be careful not to go too low, especially when travelling over various
   environments (snow, mud, flood, grass, dirt, and even big potholes) I've had
   a friend who put a huge dent and gouges into his oil pan from a large pothole
   when he dragged (at this point I wouldn't call it driving) his lowered
   car over it.

   Finally the last concern is tire wear. Lowering a Honda results in a some
   negative camber (an alignment change). The negative camber makes the top of
   your tires tilt inwards. When driving in a turn, the tires sit up straight
   which is great for cornering. However in a straight line, they ride along the
   inner edge of the tire, resulting in heavy uneven tire wear.

   Conservative lowerings are usually 1-1.5" A heavy street enthusiast lowering
   is 1.75"-2.25" inches. A race car lowering is 2.25" or more. Keep in mind, race
   cars get hurt frequently and racers don't mind hurting them. Would you mind
   hurting your street car frequently?

14a.2 What's the difference between a progressive versus linear rate spring?

   A linear rate spring has the same stiffness throughout its compression. A
   progressive one is wound in such a way that as it gets compressed more, the
   spring rate (stiffening) goes up. This is a good compromise for the cornering
   demons out there who want a really stiff spring but need a more compliant
   suspension during regular street driving.

14a.3 Do I need new struts if I get lowering springs?

   IMHO, any lowering spring will wear out OEM struts faster. But a conservative
   lowering (~1 inch) should be okay for the OEM struts. Stiffer springs and the
   extra shock compression from lowering tends to put a big strain on the struts.
   So be sure to save yourself headaches and do the struts at the same time.

14a.4 I want to cheap out and cut my springs. Why shouldn't I?

   Here's a non scientific explanation : Every manufacturer engineers a car
   with something in mind. Mind you, don't taking the word engineer lightly.
   We're talking about hundreds of hours of design and planning. So when
   you cut the springs, doesn't it strike you as just a bit odd
   of what you're doing to your car? Sure you can still drive the car
   and maybe in your ignorance not notice anything different.
   It's kind of like running around without an air filter. Sure the car
   runs still. And you don't notice anything wrong. But you're really
   doing more harm than good in the long haul.

   Since I didn't major in Physics and my last Physics course was 3 years ago,
   I'll dance around the spring equation. Every spring conforms to this
   equation. And by hacking off the the # of coils you adjust this equation
   accordingly. Let's just say it's in a very bad way. And your OEM shock's
   won't like you for it.

   Still if these aren't good enough reasons to dissuade you from cutting your
   springs, how about peer pressure? Everyone with lowering springs
   will make fun of you as drive around on cut springs bouncing along
   your local bumpy road. :D

   Don't do it.

14a.5 Do I need to realign my car once lowering springs are installed?

   Can you afford it? :D A good alignment is recommended for tire life, not necessarily
   for cornering. You may need camber kits, and your toe should be adjusted too.
   If you've done a very mild drop, I think you can forgoe the alignment until necessary.

14b.0 Struts/Shocks

14b.1 What's compression and rebound?

   Compression refers to how a shock compresses under load (spring compressing
   the shock). Rebound refers to how fast the shock returns to its original
   position (spring allowed to return to its original shape).

   It would make sense to fine tune both of these to improve handling.

14b.2 Should I get adjustable or non-adjustable struts/shocks?

   Some non adjustable shocks tend to be unbearingly stiff. Choose your shock
   wisely. Adjustable shocks are definitely worth the extra money because of
   the flexibility with suspension tuning and daily comfort.

   It's been reported that Tokico Blue shocks are equivalent to a setting 4
   on Tokico's Illuminas.

14b.3 Should I cut my bumpstops if I lower my car?

   Bumpstops are cheap but effective way of halting suspension travel.
   Bumpstops sit on the strut/shock shaft and prohibit the spring from fully
   compressing the strut/shock. Thereby limiting the amount of suspension
   travel.

   When you lower your car, you decrease the distance of suspension
   travel (because your car's suspension is partially compressed)
   What some spring manufacturer's recommend is to cut the bumpstop
   to lengthen your travel. This can have some possible negative
   effects (like arranging a blind date between your upper A-arm and your
   engine bay)

   Follow the spring manufacturer's tech advice. Most recommend trimming the
   bumpstop. This helps provide more suspension travel especially
   for lowered cars.

   FWIW, all lowering springs should increase the spring rate in the correct
   proportion to the amount of lowering. What this means is, the spring
   should be stiffer to make up for the lessened suspension travel distance.
   You shouldn't need to cut your bumpstops if your spring has been engineered
   right in the first place! What this also means is this, do not expect a
   OEM ride with stiffer springs! You wanna go low, pay for it with ride quality.

   I won't come right out and bash any particular spring companies, as most
   of them do make high quality springs. But some of these "performance" springs
   are really springs just to lower your car; and trimming the bumpstop keeps you from
   bottoming the suspension out which in turn gives an illusion of a halfway decent ride
   quality. And if you're bottoming out, well the companies figure half of these young
   Honda owners don't even know what it is anyhow.

14b.4 Why do my Tokico Illuminas bottom out so much on my 3rd Gen Integra?

   WARNING! Do not purchase Tokico Illuminas with aggressive lowering springs for
   3rd generation Integras. Konis are a good match with Neuspeed springs.
   The Integra Web Page Editors are still investigating this issue, more information
   to come.

14c.0 Swaybars

14c.1 How do sway bars work?

   When weight comes down on corner of the car, the sway bar actually twists
   in such a way that it forces the opposite side's tire down and bringing
   the acted upon corner up. This also prohibits weight transfer to the
   end of the car with the sway bar.

   So with a sway bar you can further reduce body roll, keeping the
   chassis flat. By reducing bodyroll, ideally the tires
   are allowed a better contact patch. Typically the removal
   of the weight on the sway bar end of the car removes traction
   moreso than the gain in traction by the elimination of bodyroll provided.
   In other words, the end that has the sway bar will have less traction.

   If you wish to only eliminate bodyroll, be sure to select a matched
   sway bar set if you don't wish to upset your car's weight transfer
   characteristics too much during cornering.

14c.2 Should I disconnect my front sway bar?

   An easy trick to get a FWD car to turn better is to disconnect the
   front sway bar. Problem is you will suffer from more bodyroll in front.
   Typically this is done in stock classes of autocrossing as the rules
   disallow rear sway bar changes.

14c.3 Should I only get a rear sway bar?

   It would seem the best thing to do to make a Honda FWD car corner better
   is to simply upgrade the rear sway bar. Unfortunately no one sells
   just a rear sway bar tuned for an OEM front bar setup. Most of the companies
   will sell their rear sway bar individually, but use caution. These
   rear bars come in a matched set. So expect the rear sway bar to overpower
   a stock front sway bar. The car will get particularly tail happy
   when lifting while turned or braking while turned. So make sure you know
   how to handle oversteer.

   I've been informed that Neuspeed does offer a rear bar tuned for the
   front sway bar on 1992-1995 Civics and 1994-1997 Integras (although
   they do upgrade the bushings up front too)

14d.0 Chassis Braces/Roll cages/bars

14e.0 Misc suspension components

14e.1 I've heard of camber kits to correct my lowered Honda's negative

camber problem. How do they work and who makes them?

   Most recent generation Honda/Acura cars have Honda's double wishbone (unequal
   length control arms) configuration on the front suspension. This uses
   a shock and spring configuration in which the camber line is NOT determined
   by the angle of the shaft of the shock. Strut type suspensions require camber
   plates in which the angle of the shaft of the strut can be adjusted to dial in
   the needed camber.

   On the recent generations, the high upper A-arm is responsible for determining
   the camber of your front suspension. A camber kit for the front suspension
   consists of an entire replacement upper A-arm with adjustable links in the arm.
   The adjustable length arms can be extended or shortened. If you pull off your
   front tires and look at the upper A-arm, you can see that shortening the arms
   will give you more negative camber and lengthening the arms will give you more
   positive camber.

   In the rear, the recent suspensions have been of a rear trailing arm with two
   lateral links. Again, pull off your rear tire and notice that the larger lateral
   link is what determines the camber of the rear suspension. The camber kit for
   this involves replacing this larger lateral link with one that is adjustable
   in length. Extending the link gives you more positive camber while shortening the
   length gives you more negative camber.

   Currently ZSpeed and Specialty Products(Jackson Racing, Lightspeed,
   perhaps Eibach distribute the latter) make camber kits for Hondas.
   I've had problems with the SP front camber kits and would not recommend
   them although they are much cheaper than ZSpeed's rebuilt
   front a-arms.

   It should be noted that in my experience any reputable alignment shop
   should be able to order Specialty Product camber kits. So you don't have to
   buy through the expen$ive middleman speed shop. Shop around to save money.

   A low buck tuner method of correcting rear tire camber is to use
   some washers in back to lengthen the lateral link. By having
   more positive camber in back than front, you also reduce the amount
   of understeer.

14e.2 Why should I upgrade my bushings to poly-urethane ones?

   The OEM bushing material is generally rubber. Bushings go in
   between suspension joints to allow the suspension to move freely
   without having metal on metal contact at the joints. Performance
   bushings generally are made of a harder and longer lasting
   poly-urethane. The harder bushings allow the suspension to react
   much quicker under load and transfer its movements to other
   suspension components quicker. Since the poly bushings deform less
   than rubber ones, the suspension is much more nimble feeling
   and precise. The obvious compromise here is that the ride quality
   will suffer.

14e.3 What kind of alignment settings should I get?

   Every driver has their own preference for how a car handles.
   So you should understand what handling characteristics
   you want. Do you want oversteer, understeer, neutral?
   And remember these usually change for different
   vehicle speeds.

   Typically on FWD Hondas, you want more front end bite with
   a lot less rear end bite. So you want more toe-in, and negative
   camber in front. In back more toe-out and positive camber.
   Remember these settings DO affect tire life considerably.
   Consult your local performance minded alignment shop
   for recommendations.

15.0 Drag Racing Results

15.1 So what 1/4 mile times can I expect for [xxx] mods?

   Depending on driver, running condition, and environment here are some ranges
   of times to expect.

   Now don't write in complaining about these posted times or bragging about how
   fast your car is with minimal modifications. If you feel like you must prove
   something, I require two timeslips from two different tracks with a list of
   complete setups (including fluids types) and the elevation and temperature and
   time of day.

   Typical Bolt On Mods (tbody, ignition, headers, exhaust, intake, chip)
   Accord	16.0s-->17.5s
   Civic	15.8s-->17.5s
   CRX		15.3s-->16.5s
   delSol	15.1s-->16.0s
   Integra      14.8s-->16.2s
   Legend	??
   NSX		14.0s-->14.5s
   Prelude      14.5s-->16.5s
   TL, RL, CL   ??
   Vigor	??

   If someone can send in the results of the fastest Accords, Civics, CRXs, etc etc
   I'd appreciate it. Of course the categories should include :
   NA, NOS, Turbo, NOS&Turbo, and there will be more categories for
   Civics (Civics w/ 1.6DOHC, 1.6 DOHC VTEC, 1.8 DOHC, 1.8 DOHC, 1.8 DOHC VTEC
   and then use NOS and Turbo combinations on top of those!)

   Pull from the Honda Performance list, the following URL (not really complete listing,
   but good enough for now) : http://users.ccnet.com/~fmlin/pbh/fastest/index.html   Thanks Frank!

15.2 How do I read my time slip? What's trap speed and what's E.T?

   When you get your time slip, you should look at three numbers. Your reaction
   time, your E.T., and your trap speed.

   The reaction time DOES NOT factor into your 1/4 mile time. Do not subtract
   your reaction time from your E.T. Maybe this is why everyone claims they're doing
   fast fast fast 1/4 miles w/o much modifications! ;D

   The E.T. is your official 1/4 mile time pass (elapsed time, I think)

   Trap speed indicates what kind of horsepower you're pushing (or if you were
   sandbagging)

   (I put this in here for you Ken!)